We all had a great night's sleep - I felt like I was being swallowed by a marshmallow in the huge, comfortable bed! It had a bolster, two square pillows and a thick quilt! With my two big pillows, I felt like I was enveloped in softness and warmth!
We were up at 8am and after coffee and brioche, we made for the showers. Unfortunately, the shower that Sophie used in the main bathroom turned cold, leaving her very uncomfortable. I was aghast, as Keith and I hadn't showered yet and there was no way I wanted to venture out without feeling squeaky clean! Plus, it was bitterly cold outside, and a hot shower is wonderful for warming you within!
I ran the shower in the en-suite and it was hot, so I urged Sophie to jump in and warm up. Keith and I then both had showers, which thankfully, were fine. At home, I have it really hot and emerge into a steamy cloud but this one did the job, thank goodness!
We finally set out at about 10.30am and headed for Arromanches-les-Bains. We took a delightful rural route to the coastal town, passing through gorgeous villages, which seemed deserted.
We parked in the centre of Arromanches-les-Bains and walked through empty streets to the front. I could see the Hotel Marine further along the promenade and told Keith and Sophie that I'd stayed there in March 1988 with my parents. At the time, my Dad had been in a wheelchair as he'd had a bad car accident in November 1987, and why on earth we decided to travel to France when he was like that is beyond me. It was a disastrous trip because, after our stay at the Hotel Marine, we failed to book any more accommodation, and spent ages looking for rooms in other hotels. We eventually found one in Caen, but it was on the top floor, not ideal when my Dad could hardly walk!
Predictably, the hotel was closed and wouldn't re-open until February. The menu posted outside looked expensive and the starter of crab that I'd eaten with my parents was priced at 18 euros! We soon began to realise that this part of France is effectively closed in January. Everywhere, we saw signs saying the shops and restaurants were closed for about a month and would re-open towards the end of February...
We walked along the front gazing out at the grey and choppy sea and stood looking at the remains of one of the Mulberry harbours constructed by the Alllies to moor boats in the Normandy Landings. We realised that this year, it will be the 80th Anniversary of the event, on the 6th of June.
The tide was in and we couldn't see much of the harbour, plus it was bitterly cold, so we made for a warm and cosy café for a hot chocolate apiece. Nowhere else was open and even the café was quiet with just a handful of hardy souls taking advantage of the place! Opposite, was an American eaterie called Sargent Willy's which we were thankful was closed!
It was lovely to sit in the warmth and enjoy our hot drinks. Behind us, was a man who was drawing cartoons, and whether he was local or not, we'll never know. I told Keith and Sophie all about my trip to Arromanches in 1988 and how my Mum had done most of the driving, only giving up when they were in the busy port town of Caen and my poor Dad had to take over. I hadn't even contemplated driving then!
Lunch in Deauville
We decided to head for Deauville further along the coast and followed signs for a war cemetery at first, before giving up and turning inland. I'd wanted to drive to Deauville on the coastal road, but Sophie, using Googly, directed me towards Bayeux and then onwards to Caen. Amazingly, as we neared the outskirts of Bayeux, we saw a light sprinkling of snow on the fields!
This disappeared once we were past the town, but it was still freezing cold. Even on a Sunday, the ring road around Caen was busy and I was a bit annoyed that we'd driven this way. However, Sophie took me off the autoroute and we drove through stunning countryside interspersed with gorgeous villages on the way to the town. One part of the countryside was frozen - all the bushes and trees were white with hoar frost and the ever-present mistletoe balls were like glacial hanging decorations. It was so beautiful.
At Deauville, we drove past the horse-racing track, and several large hotels, and managed to find a parking space on a shopping street. Sophie immediately noticed designer shops and I saw three Porsches in quick succession!
We went off in search of a warm and cosy restaurant for lunch, but some were full, with people forced to sit outside and many others firmly closed. We ventured into one place to be told they were full. It's a horrible feeling being told that there's no room, and it's freezing outside!
We were becoming increasingly worried we'd end up at a Carrefour again and as it was Sunday, most would have been closed anyway! We wandered back to a main square where there were several eateries and spotted L'Étoile which looked warm and inviting. Thankfully, they had a table free and soon we were out of our coats, scarves and gloves and looking at the menu. It was a lovely little place with two busy staff who looked like a couple. They were very friendly and hospitable.
Keith chose a Belgian beer, Affligem, while Sophie and I had a glass of Chablis each, at a reasonable 7.50 euros. We both decided to have the mussels in a white wine and cream sauce (something I'd said I wanted while we were driving to the town) served with French fries. Keith chose the veal chop with mashed potatoes.
The atmosphere was convivial and we congratulated ourselves on finding such a lovely place to eat! Keith's veal chop arrived and it was huge! My chips were also brought to the table and I couldn't resist eating them as they were hot and salty. Scrumptious!
It was a great meal and Sophie and I both said that the mussels - a huge portion - were the best we'd ever eaten. The sauce was creamy and delicious and had chopped onions floating in it.
Sophie and I found room for a chocolate and pear pie with cream for dessert and my daughter indulged in a glass of Calvados. She was also offered a shot glass of "homemade Calvados" which came from an old water bottle! She said it was like drinking rocket fuel!
By now, we were the only ones left in the restaurant so we paid the bill and made our way back out into the cold. Next door was an Italian delicatessen so we popped in and bought a bottle of red wine for tonight and some croutons to enjoy with the rest of the paté. They were closing up as well so we arrived just in time!
Before going back to the car we visited a pharmacy where Sophie bought some cream that costs her a fortune in the UK. Here, she was able to buy twice as much for half the cost!
The Normandy Beaches
I was determined to drive along the coast so we found the right road and set off back to the Airbnb. Keith sat in the back of the car and snoozed while Sophie sat beside me and directed me via Googly. The road we were on, the D513, was a lovely route, passing through empty seaside towns and vast, deserted
beaches with a few people out walking their dogs and enjoying the brisk sea air.
All of the hotels and restaurants were shuttered up but to be honest, this added to the bleak atmosphere of the region. No doubt, in the summer, the place is heaving with tourists and holiday-makers, and Sophie commented that it didn't seem right seeing as the beaches were, in effect, graveyards.
We particularly liked the towns of Houlgate and Cabourg, and then we made our way towards the ferry port of Ouistreham, where we drove over the Pegasus Bridge. The first beach we came to was Sword and we got out to take a look.
This was followed by Juno Beach and then Gold Beach, near Arromanches. It had been a wonderful drive but we'd never have made it to Deauville for lunch if we'd followed this road earlier. Sophie did a fantastic job of navigating me through the beautiful countryside, and we enjoyed seeing the old-fashioned Normandy houses with their odd-shaped roofs and shuttered windows.
Just before Arromanches, we turned inland and passed the British Normandy Memorial which we decided to visit the next day. It was growing dark now and the empty countryside was stunning in the dusk. Wide-open fields surrounded us, with straight lines of trees disappearing into the distance and occasional farm buildings with coils of smoke emerging into the chilly evening air.
It was heavenly to get back to the house, light the fire that Keith had prepared this morning and relax. I fell asleep in front of the fire, and later we opened the bottle of Italian red and played cards while Keith watched his new show on Disney+.
It had been a wonderful day, and my birthday was still to come!
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| Gorgeous cake at L'Étoile |
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