Saturday 13 December 2003

Hunting for Father Christmas in Lapland

I had always glanced enviously at the adverts for trips to Lapland in the paper during the build-up to Christmas but they had always seemed far too expensive for what promised to be a long day of travelling. However, December 2003 was to be the month when we finally went in search of the real man himself! Suitably attired in thermal underwear, boots and a bag full of spare clothes we set off early from Luton airport with two sleepy but excited children.

We chose Canterbury Travel for our adventure and soon found that they were excellent when it came to the organisation and planning of a very special day. The check-in staff were friendly and sported reindeer antlers and it was novel not to have to check in large amounts of luggage. We soon found that our thermal underwear was too hot for a heated terminal building so one layer had to be removed in the Ladies' loos! After a short wait in the Departure Lounge, we boarded the plane with numerous other excited families all wearing the standard uniform of chunky boots and warm clothing.

We landed in Lapland just as the light was fading but we still had a clear view of the snowy landscape. Everyone immediately began to don even more warm clothing, which was a mistake as it was only a short walk to the tiny terminal building where we found ourselves kitted out in cosy all-in-one suits, boots, helmets and gloves. The temperature was about -22 degrees but inside it was toasty and we were soon sweating! Again, the organisation was superb with plenty of staff on hand to ensure we all had the right size and lots of benches and tables to lean against as we pulled on our brightly coloured thermal suits. All of our excess belongings were placed in huge bags, which were left in the building, and then we donned balaclavas and helmets for the Skidoo ride to Hetta.


I don't think I will ever forget the magical ride as we sat on sledges covered in reindeer fur. Pulling our visors down against the intense cold we looked out over snowy forests and ice-covered lakes with not a building or road to be seen. The children were well wrapped up and Michael even fell asleep, causing us to panic as we thought he had suffocated from all the scarves wrapped around him!

The last part of the journey was across a vast frozen lake on which Skidoos and even cars sped along. The hotel was certainly a welcoming sight in the gathering gloom and after climbing out of the warmth of the fur-covered sledges and up a hill we were met with steaming glasses of berry juice. Delicious!

We had about three hours to take part in all the activities on offer, with the hotel as a base whenever we wanted to return to the warmth of its log fire and buffet. It seemed very strange to be thinking of lunch when it was so dark!

The village of Hetta was very small with just one main street and a few houses dotted about amongst the fir trees. Everywhere we went were tiny pots with candles inside and every now and again a brazier full of burning logs. We didn't feel cold at all and the children had a whale of a time tobogganing down a steep slope and generally playing in the abundant snow.





Exploring further we found our way to the Ice Palace, a building made completely of ice, funnily enough! Inside was a small reception area where we sipped hot chocolate and ate delicious biscuits. Sitting at an ice table was a new experience and we were careful to place our hot drinks onto small wooden boards, which prevented the table from melting.


The Ice Palace had several rooms and a tiny ornate church with an altar made of ice. Even the bedrooms had beds made of ice and covered in reindeer skins. We lost Michael several times in the darkness and as all the children had the same snowsuits on, finding him again was very difficult!




After the Ice Palace, we tried kick-sledging which both children loved and then we walked over to the area where we hoped we would find Father Christmas. There was a large teepee with a burning brazier in front and several Skidoos waiting to take families to find the great man himself. We were told there was a short wait so we took a reindeer ride and then the children enjoyed themselves some more in the snow.

Before long the great moment had arrived, the climax to our journey! We took our seats in another Skidoo and were driven at speed out into the countryside amongst snowy forests. It was an exhilarating ride and after a few minutes, we came to a clearing in the trees. Another teepee awaited us with a welcoming fire beside it. The Skidoo disappeared and we were told to turn around and follow a path lined with red candles. At the end of the path was a beautiful log cabin and one of Santa's helpers stood waiting. As we went inside we saw Father Christmas surrounded by a pile of presents. Sophie and Mikey sat next to him while I took several photographs to prove we had found him! He chatted to the children about how they were enjoying Lapland and then we made our way outside again where Mikey thought it was great fun to knock the candles over!



 Back at the village, we headed to the hotel for lunch and it was great to get rid of our heavy snowsuits for a while and relax in the restaurant. The buffet was adequate, but not brilliant and we opted for bullet-hard jacket potatoes and vegetable fritters. All the soft drinks and coffee were free and up until now, we had not spent any money at all. The hotel reminded me of a gathering of a weird sect as everyone had the same outer clothes with the same names emblazoned on them! Our dessert made up for the poor main course and we tucked into pancakes with cream and jam.
 
After lunch, we sat by the fire for a while and I treated Michael to a miniature Skidoo. People were writing postcards and sending them, which I thought was a great idea. I was desperate to drive a Skidoo myself, so we walked down to the lake's edge and while the children had a go on the small Skidoos, I drove one right out onto the frozen lake. It was like riding a motorbike without wheels, and although I was bitterly cold I really enjoyed the experience!

The children had enjoyed their ride as well, but now we were all feeling the cold so we walked to the souvenir shop to see what they had on offer. Everyone seemed to have had the same idea and the little shop was crammed full of people in shiny red suits buying tacky reindeer and postcards and we soon realised that there was nothing authentic to buy.

Sadly, our time in Lapland was almost over and we made our way back to the hotel and the bus which would take us to the airport. It was a very short journey but we managed to catch a glimpse of Lapland life and it looked pretty desolate and lonely. Most of the houses had little pyramids of candles in the windows and a Skidoo parked outside, rather than a car!

Back at the airport we returned our snowsuits and retrieved our belongings from the storage area. The flight home was quite stressful as Michael was over-tired and threw several tantrums until he finally fell asleep, exhausted by all the excitement. We were the last to leave the train and I carried him off as he was still out for the count! It had been a long day, with a lot of travelling, but we'd had a fantastic time in a truly magical setting!