Sunday 5 December 2021

A Mallorcan Winter Break - Day 2

Exploring Palma

Last night we discovered that before we go home on Thursday, we have to take either a PCR or lateral flow test with a registered tester, and record the results. This had put us all into a bit of a bad mood as we suspected something like this would happen, due to the new Omicron variant. It meant we had to take the test on either Tuesday or Wednesday, using up some of our precious holiday time.

We awoke, after a good night's sleep, to blue skies and sunshine, which was definitely a bonus. Mallorcan weather can be tricky at the best of times because of the mountains, and we were hoping for some winter sun at least some of the time!

View from our balcony



Before going down for breakfast I stood on the balcony admiring the view. We could see mountains in the distance and the occasional plane taking off from the airport. The occupant from the room next door came out and, for one mad moment, I thought it was Michael! He looked identical to my son with a black hoodie and baseball cap and very briefly I felt a wave of homesickness wash over me, and a real yearning to see him!

Keith and I made our way down to breakfast at about 9am and said we would see Sophie and Zain in the dining room. Unfortunately, Keith and I forgot to wear our masks, and we were shrieked at by the dragon in charge of the breakfasts. She yelled at us across the crowded room so we had plenty of witnesses and again, we felt humiliated! In the UK we've only just had to go back to wearing them in shops but in Spain, they are really strict about wearing them everywhere.

Breakfast was buffet style and my choices of eggs, baked beans and Spanish sausage were lukewarm. There was plenty of coffee, though, and a whole selection of delicious breads and pastries so we didn't go hungry. Sophie and Zain came down about twenty minutes after us and had to wait for a table. We were surprised by how busy it was, and then we discovered that there was a Public Holiday on Monday - Constitution Day, but also one on Wednesday - The Feast of the Immaculate Conception. I had managed to book a week (randomly, at work, to use up my annual leave) when there were two Public Holidays! This could have explained why the hotel was so busy!

We had decided today to go into Palma and explore the Cathedral and the Palace next door. We took a taxi from the rank near to the hotel, and soon we were being dropped off in a side street nearby. There seemed to be some sort of marathon or race on as a lot of the roads were closed, and a man with a loudspeaker was being very noisy and excitable.




It was very windy and there was hardly anybody about. It was lovely, though, to be back in Mallorca, soaking up the sights and smells. We made our way to the Cathedral but we weren't allowed in as Mass was going on (we had suspected this may be the case) so we went to the Royal Palace of La Almudaina instead. This was originally a 10th-century Muslim fortress but was taken over by the Spaniards in 1229.

It was a very good choice, as the Palace is beautiful. We wandered through its many rooms, enjoying the views of the sea and the Paseo Maritimo outside.



We had to wear masks throughout

I loved the pink pantaloons!

Beautiful arched windows and stone floors

Sophie looking very Spanish!

Gorgeous works of art but no idea who they were by!

Arab baths


I loved the honey-coloured stone, the antique furniture, and the wall hangings and paintings. It wasn't busy at all so we could wander where we liked, although this had to be done strictly by following the signs - we tried to deviate to a chapel but were told to go back and follow the route! The Spanish did seem to like bossing us about!

I could have wandered about all day and I was so glad we decided to go in. We missed the palace last time so it was great to see something new.


So typically Mallorcan, curved doors, stonework and plants








At the end of the tour was Saint Anne's Chapel which had beautiful stained glass windows:



I love the way the colours are reflected onto the surrounding stonework.

Reluctantly, we left the Palace and walked towards the Placa Mayor in the hope of finding a Christmas market. It was a little busier by now but many shops were closed, which surprised me. We had hopes of having a beer at the same bar we went to in September 2019 but this was firmly closed as well.

There was indeed a Christmas market in progress in the main square but it seemed the Spanish hadn't got the memo about the type of cabins a Christmas market is normally held in... we expected them to be similar to the ones in Germany and the UK - pretty Alpine chalets with fake snow. Here, in Palma, they were soulless white boxes, so that was a bit disappointing! We looked at the few in the square and they were selling Christmas decorations but nothing took our fancy. We wanted a gonk!

We somehow stumbled upon La Rambla where there were more white huts but by now we all fancied a drink and a sit-down. We decided to head back towards the Cathedral and the marina and luckily we found a busy cafe called Enco on the front. The wind was very strong here so we took a sheltered table and ordered some drinks. Sophie and Zain were hungry so they ordered a pizza to share.

I now felt like I was truly on holiday - sitting in a bustling cafe, with the sun shining and delicious smells of garlic wafting about. Heaven!



We sat and enjoyed the food and drinks, and did a lot of people watching. Everyone was wrapped up against the chilly wind, but in sheltered spots, the sun was lovely and warm.

Before heading back to the hotel we tried to visit the Cathedral, but we'd left it too late and it was closed. We wandered around the escarpments and tried to avoid the touts selling fake bags and tourist tat.



Exploring Ca'n Pastilla

A taxi sped us back to Ca'n Pastilla, and Keith and I decided to have a walk along the seafront. It was very bracing and the waves coming onto the beach were high and frothy. Some hardy people were out surfing, and seemed to be having a great time!



There is a lovely promenade stretching in two directions and we did wonder whether we could walk as far as Palma. We passed several bars and restaurants so I don't think we'll have any difficulty finding somewhere to eat over the next couple of nights.

It was lovely to be out exploring and this was one of the reasons we wanted to come back to the hotel. We walked as far as a headland and marvelled at the size of the waves and the ferocity of the wind.


Palma in the distance




We turned around and headed back to the area near our hotel, picking out a beachfront bar for a quick drink. I obtained my heart's desire - sitting at a bar with a beer and feeling the warm sun on my face!

Happiness is...

England in the clouds!


We sat at the bar for a good while enjoying watching people walk past and seeing the everchanging sky. At one point I thought we were going to get pelted with rain but it passed over. After our drinks, we called into a little supermarket and bought some beer, water, cava and snacks. Next door, admiring a tartan scarf, Keith was accosted by the owner who virtually made him buy one! It was lovely and soft though, and will keep his neck warm!

Before going back to the hotel, Keith wanted to visit the little bar next door again, so we went in and ordered two beers. This time we received a bowl of chicken wings to go with the drinks, and they were delicious. The bar was a lot quieter than last night, thank goodness, and Sophie came down to join us, ordering a glass of Sangria. Keith and I had another beer and received a bowl of spicy Spanish sausages. Fabulous!

We had agreed to go our separate ways for dinner again, and Keith and I decided to try the Steakhouse restaurant about a five-minute walk away. Before we went, though, we had a walk along the front.

The lit-up square

Our room is on the third floor, the last room on the left.


We walked along the promenade towards Arenal and it was a lonely and chilly stroll. Apart from the aforementioned fast-food restaurants very little was open, and there was only the occasional person out walking their dog. There is nothing so sad as a holiday resort out of season, and all the big hotels were in darkness. I am sure that in the summer this whole area is buzzing with people on holiday but this evening it was dark and cold, so we soon turned back.

When we arrived at the restaurant there was only one other couple eating. A short while later when they got up to leave I almost pleaded with them to stay! They said goodbye and I think they knew how we felt!

The restaurant was strangely decorated, with a wall of ugly brown tiles obscuring several windows:

Keith with the new scarf in front of ugly brown tiles.

We had noticed the large table set up as we came in, so we knew we were in for some more company later in the evening! We had a look at the menu and I ordered pork chops while Keith salivated over the dish of lamb chops. The bread, olives and aioli were enough for a starter, and I drank a very fruity red wine.

As well as the weird decor, the music they chose was also a throwback to the 70s. It began to feel a bit surreal! Our food arrived and there were no vegetables to speak of, just a few tiny cut up peppers balanced on a potato. Keith thoroughly enjoyed his lamb and my chops were OK, but I had begun to wish I'd ordered something different. I yearned for veggies!

The wine was good though, and the waiter seemed to take a liking to us, filling up my glass for a third time until it was almost full! By the time we'd finished our meal people were starting to arrive for the table behind us, and we worked it out that it was a birthday celebration for a lady wearing black hot pants, fishnet tights and a cream, close-fitting jumper. She hugged, kissed and whooped over everyone that arrived and there were plenty of them! What is it with loud Spanish women?!

Keith and I ordered a dessert of lemon meringue pie and watched as more and more people arrived for the birthday celebrations. One lady arrived wearing a short red coat and she looked distinctly miserable. That was until she was asked to pose for a photo with the birthday girl, and she whipped off her coat to reveal a tiny red lacy dress that left absolutely nothing to the imagination! I think the birthday girl had her nose put out! After the reveal, red-dress lady lapped up a lot of attention!

By now it was getting late and the party behind us were in full swing, dining on mussels, what looked like battered squid and drinking copious amounts of beer and sangria. I predicted tears before bedtime!


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