Friday 7 August 2015

A Scottish Adventure - August 4-9 2015

Three ferries in one day

I treated myself to a delicious full breakfast this morning and it kept me going for the rest of the day! We spoke to the couple who were on the boat with us yesterday and they said how sorry they felt for us being buffeted by the wind and the waves, but I reassured them there was nothing they could do as to have got up and swapped seats would have been positively dangerous.

We set off rather late this morning and Keith walked down to Strontian village to buy a newspaper in the village shop. We'd decided to head for Skye but we were undecided as to which way to go - via Mallaig and the ferry to Armadale, or to take the longer road route which passes through some spectacular scenery? Half of the route to Mallaig was on single track roads so we decided to do the longer route via the Kyle of Lochalsh and maybe head home on the ferry.

To begin with, we had to take the small ferry to Corran and luckily, even though there was a queue of cars in front us, we managed to get on straight away. It cost £8 for the single trip and we stayed in our car as we made the short crossing.


Once over the Loch we headed for Fort William and then further north towards Skye. The road wasn't that busy which was a relief and very soon we were on the A87. Sophie promptly fell asleep and as we neared Skye we decided to take the very small ferry to Kylerhea. To get there we had to head over a mountain pass that became a little hairy, especially as I was driving!



The road seemed to go forever and we started to question whether it was a good idea to use the old ferry rather than the bridge, but it was too late to turn back! At last we arrived to find the ferry disembarking some cars so we were soon being loaded ourselves.

Again, we sat in the car and paid the ferryman £15 for the privilege!

Funnily enough, we met this car again at the ferry port in Armadale




This ferry crossing has been used since 1773 and only runs in the summer. Keith and I used it the last time we visited Skye and chatted to a man wearing a kilt and carrying a Tesco shopping bag! He was a real character!

Once over the narrow crossing we resumed the road and I followed the big Porsche car that had been in front of me. The road was very winding and steep in places and luckily we only met the odd car now and again. The Porsche took off so he wasn't much help!

Once we were on Skye we decided what was best to see as we didn't have long. Keith wanted to get the 5.20pm ferry back to Mallaig so we headed for Broadford first as Sophie needed the loo! We called in at The Crowlin Hotel for a quick drink and again, Sophie was not impressed, but then neither was I! A few other tables were taken by tourists (one couple were French I think) and the food served to them looked very unappetising!

We quickly drank up and headed inland to the Talisker Distillery as I wanted to buy some whisky for my Dad and maybe a bottle for me. The roads seemed a lot busier than when we last visited and it may have been because we were right in the middle of the holiday season.

The narrow road to the distillery was jammed with cars and a long convoy of camper vans all heading to Carbost. I'd never seen so many all together in one place in my life and the queue made our progress snail-like as we crawled along behind. Just a few feet from the distillery everything ground to a halt and Keith got out of the car to see what was happening. He directed me eventually into a space in the car park but by now I'd had enough!

The distillery was crammed with people and had definitely had a make-over since our last visit almost twenty years ago! We decided not to take a tour and I chose two bottles of Singleton whisky - Tailfire and Sunray - as I'd bought my Dad Talisker for his Father's Day present back in June.

I remember the distillery being very small, very basic and very quiet the last time we went so we were both shocked to see so many people clamouring to get in!

As the time was speeding past we decided, reluctantly, to head to Armadale. I felt cheated that we hadn't got to see much of Skye but maybe Keith and I will return on our own when the summer madness has died down!

It was still wonderful to see the fantastic scenery and the Black Cuillins which still command respect for their majestic peaks. The drive to Armadale was lovely as we could see over to the mainland and I stopped half way to take a couple of photos.




The ferry terminal was busy but we were able to buy tickets straight away from the very jovial staff in the office. We had about an hour's wait so Keith amused himself by walking to the end of the pier and throwing the remnants of our picnic to the seagulls who homed in on the food like heat-seeking missiles!



We were also able to sit and have a cup of tea and a cake and Sophie enjoyed a chicken burger which she'd been longing for ever since we entered Scotland!

The little cafe overlooking the water




We were soon driving onto the ferry and this time we had to leave the car and make our way up to the decks. It was very windy once we set off so the three of us sat inside and I was surprised to see a little shop and cafe. It was like a cross-channel ferry in miniature!

Before we went in I did take some photos:




The crossing didn't take long and very soon we were embarking in Mallaig which looked a busy town. The road back to our B&B was gorgeous and we decided to try for a pub in Glenfinnan, half way to Fort William.

The route was very quiet and we sped along, (Keith was driving) passing a promising looking hotel called The Lochailort Inn. However, I was convinced there was something better in Glenfinnan so we carried on...only to be bitterly disappointed!

It meant we had to drive back to Lochailort and luckily they were able to accommodate us for a meal. As usual, Sophie took exception to the place straight away as the walls were painted blood red and there were deer heads and stuffed animals everywhere. She said to me that, "something bad happened here," and I was inclined to agree at first! However, the place grew on me and we had a very good meal. I chose chicken stuffed with haggis, Keith had fish and chips (what else?) while Sophie opted for just a starter of chicken liver pate as she was still full from her chicken burger. I also fancied some Scottish cheese afterwards but the wait lasted forever as I think they had to go out and buy some!

Our waitress was clearly not English and her command of our language was not brilliant as Keith and Sophie told me she'd already said there was no cheese but I hadn't heard her! She also hadn't heard of a "whisky and lemonade" which I thought was strange considering her choice of job!

Our meal was enlivened by the family on the table next to us who kept us entertained with their imperious requests and the fact that the husband/father spent the entire meal staring at his phone and not talking to his family at all. Even when he was eating he kept the blasted thing in his hand and ignored what was going on around him!

After our meal we continued on our journey but we had no choice but to turn off the main road and head back to Strontian on a smaller road. Half of the journey was on a two lane highway but then the road narrowed and we were back on the single trackway. However, the stunning scenery made up for the slight discomfort and I felt like I could easily live along the route, it was so beautiful. What made it even lovelier was the gorgeous evening sky as the sun went down. I tried to capture the views:



Before long we were back in Strontian and heading back up the narrow track. We just had a brief watch of the TV before it was time for bed!

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