I pulled up the shutters this morning to see thick cloud overhead. Not what we had been expecting! The sky hadn't changed by the time Sophie awoke, so we decided to make the most of the cooler, cloudier conditions and visit Bergerac, about twenty minutes away.
We set off at about 10:30am and had a smooth run to the town, driving firstly through Les Lèches, which had a mix of old and modern houses, as well as the church we can see from the garden. Sophie had plugged the address of a car park into her phone's satnav, and this took me to an area of street parking near a huge, imposing church.
We both fancied a coffee and a pastry, and after having a little wander about the narrow streets, we found a tiny patisserie serving hot drinks and cakes. We didn't notice the breakfast menu until after we'd ordered... duh!
We sat outside, right next to an older French couple who smiled and said hello. The woman was smoking, but weirdly enough, I don't object to it so much while in France or Germany. To me, it adds to the atmosphere!
The waiter brought out our café cremes and almond and pear cakes, and we tucked in! Sophie mentioned she needed to see a pharmacist today as her toothache wasn't going away, and she was constantly in pain. It was hurting her to eat, never a good thing!
Just before we left, a little tourist train passed, and we waved to the people on it. Maybe if we go back again, we'll take a ride and see the sights. Bergerac is on the Dordogne River, and there were quite a lot of mentions of Cyrano de Bergerac, with a statue of him near the church.
We found a pharmacy a short walk away, and Sophie asked the pharmacist if she could supply her with antibiotics. The answer was no; we needed to call the "15", and they would fill out a prescription. She gave us the name of the pharmacy, and that was that. Outside, Sophie burst into tears as she was in so much pain. I gave her a hug, but I knew we'd get it sorted one way or another.
As we were walking towards a bar to sit, have a drink and try to make the phone call, Keith rang us. He had been given an ID4 as a courtesy car while Olive was being repaired. This surprised me as I honestly thought that VW would say there was nothing wrong with the car. Luckily, John had taken him down to VW to pick it up, so at least he was now mobile and could go and do his shopping!
We sat outside at the bar and ordered a small glass of local wine each. Sophie then called the "15", which is like our own 111 number. She asked if the person who answered spoke English, and they did, a little. Sophie slowly explained what had happened with her tooth, and she was put on hold to speak to someone else.
Unfortunately, this woman was not at all sympathetic and refused to even try to speak English or French very slowly. She was extremely rude, and when I took over the call to try to understand her, I had difficulty hearing her, as there was a lot of background noise where we were sitting. She put us on hold, and then spoke to us again, but when I said I didn't speak French, she was rude and said, in French, "Well, you're in France!" I put the phone down on her!
This attitude upset us both; we speak French in cafés and restaurants, and I can understand far more than I can speak. However, the French for a tooth infection eluded us! Sophie's phone rang twice, but finally she was able to speak to someone who understood her, and they said they would send the antibiotic prescription to the pharmacy for us to collect.
Sophie ran off to get the medication as the pharmacy was due to close at 12:15pm. I paid for our drinks and met up with her in the pharmacy. She was given paracetamol, ibuprofen, a mouthwash and Amoxycillin antibiotics. We held our breath as the pharmacist totted up the price, as we expected it to be very expensive, but it was only 23 euros! What a bargain! We were so relieved that we had been given what we needed!
Doggy disaster!
Armed with the meds and feeling a lot better, we wandered around the town, stumbling upon a gorgeous wine shop called Le Temps Du Vin. It was absolutely stuffed with wine and spirits of all kinds, and there was a lower floor that had bottles of seriously expensive wine. I saw a very old bottle of Château Pétrus in a glass cabinet that was selling for thousands of euros. It was similar to the wine shop we visited in Deauville, and the owner had different vintages from the 60s and 70s. He had a bottle of wine from 1968, but I wasn't tempted!
As we perused the lower level of wine, with the occasional gasp from me, he watched our every move! But then I would probably have done the same with some of the bottles I saw! We eventually bought three local bottles of wine, a sparkling, a red and a white. They will probably go home with us.
We complimented him on his gorgeous shop, and he seemed very pleased! I dread to think how much his stock is worth!
Across from the wine shop was Restaurant Le Saint James, and we took a seat outside. The waiter was very friendly, and we ordered a bottle of rosé before giving our lunch choices. There was a British couple behind us with two yappy dogs that barked at any other dog passing by; they were very annoying! Why take your dogs to restaurants if they hate other dogs?
We placed our food orders with the waiter - a beef burger for Sophie and a chicken burger for me. As we sat and sipped our wine, we heard an almighty commotion from the doggy table and then the sound of smashing glass... the dogs had spotted a Beagle and one of them had lunged forward, barking, but the lead was wrapped around the table leg and the whole lot had gone over! Everyone stared at them as the poor waiter appeared with a broom, dustpan and brush. There was glass everywhere!
The couple left shortly after that, and peace reigned! Two other tables had dogs with them, and they were perfectly behaved! We enjoyed our main course and found room for pudding - a crème brûlée for me, and tiramisu for Sophie. We lingered for a long time over lunch, as it was so relaxing sitting outside the restaurant and watching the comings and goings of people passing by.
While Sophie and I were having lunch, an older couple had arrived to sit at the next table. They were British, and they ordered a sharing platter of cheeses and meats to eat. Sophie looked at her phone and noticed an email from a podcast she listens to and subscribes to, hosted by David McCloskey and Gordon Corera. They were holding an event at Bletchley Park where they would record two podcast episodes, along with a guided tour and a Q&A session. She was hugely excited and said she would get tickets on Thursday when they were released. We chatted about Bletchley Park, and when she mentioned the ticket would give a year's access, I shrugged and said I'd enjoyed my visit, but I hadn't rushed back; one visit had been enough for me.
The man opposite had got up to use the loo, and before he left with his wife, he came over to speak to Sophie about Bletchley Park. He said he had visited many, many times; there was so much to see, and he thought it was very interesting. He and Sophie chatted about the podcast, and he completely ignored me! That certainly put me in my place for dismissing Bletchley Park! Anyway, who was the rudest? Me or him for listening in on our conversation! Huh!
A little exploring
By now, the cloud had disappeared, and we could see fluffy white clouds and blue sky. It was also warmer! We paid the bill and wandered up the street, stopping to look at different menus and resisting the impulse to go into a foie gras shop!
We came across a narrow shopping street and several gift shops where we bought a T-shirt, hair scrunchies, soap and gifts for Keith (I'm not giving anything away as he will be reading this!). The shops were beautiful, and the women running them were friendly and welcoming.
Bergerac was a beautiful town, and we had only glimpsed part of it. As we neared the car, we could see a funeral taking place, which explained the tolling of the bells we heard earlier. Before leaving, we managed to dispose of our recycling, which was a bonus. I didn't fancy carting it around in the car for much longer!
Scrabble and cocktails
I manoeuvered out of the parking space, and we retraced our route back to the house. It was hot now, so we changed into our swimsuits and spent a very pleasant couple of hours in and by the pool. I looked at the weather forecast and was horrified to see it would be about 40 °C on Sunday and Monday! This was far hotter than we had expected and even hotter than the heatwave we had in Spain last year!
We see a little blackbird every morning and evening, and I think he now expects food from us, as we put some bread onto the lawn. We have also seen a little black and grey bird, pigeons, a magpie and lots of lizards!
We had a game of Scrabble (Sophie thrashed me!) and then we sat at the table until 10:00pm. It was a much more comfortable temperature and lovely to spend so long sitting outside.
At 10:00pm, we went inside and watched another episode of Unchosen. We have two more to watch, so they will have to wait until Wednesday! It was a late night for us!