Saturday, 16 May 2026

Eurovision in Vienna, 14th to the 17th of May, 2026

Another iconic café...

Sophie and I both had another great night's sleep, and I went down for coffee again while Sophie finished getting ready. It was lovely to sit and sip my coffee and drink a bottle of water.

This morning, we were having breakfast at Café Sperl, another location in Before Sunrise. This café was where Céline and Jesse pretended to have a phone conversation with friends. It had rained overnight, and the sky looked full of more. We walked to the café and joined the end of the queue for a table. Sophie was very excited to be at the café featured in the film, and we didn't have to wait long before we were shown to a table.

We sat in the window and had a good look at the breakfast menu. Sophie chose an omelette with ham while I settled for two warm rolls with butter and apricot jam. Oh, and copious amounts of coffee! The service was a little slow, but we were happy to sit and chat and stare out of the window at the people passing, now carrying umbrellas.

A man in front of us had ordered breakfast, and he followed this up with a slice of sachertorte! Why not? We lingered over our breakfast, soaking up the atmosphere as more people continued to queue to get a table.






After paying the bill, we walked down to the Naschmarkt, where we were hoping to visit the Saturday flea market. By now it was raining properly, and before heading over the road to the marketplace, we called into a small supermarket to buy some hair conditioner. Sophie also picked up a bar of chocolate and a small bottle of schnapps to enjoy later.

Wein Not?

Naschmarkt was very busy and crowded with people, and we kept getting dripped on from the awnings. We avoided the nut sellers (last time we were fleeced out of 10 euros), but the throng of people was a bit overwhelming, and Sophie wasn't even sure if the flea market had gone ahead, as it was out in the open. We decided to skip this, and we headed to Wein & Co instead for a glass of wine.

We took a table in the window again, and I ordered a Riesling while Sophie opted for a Chardonnay, both of which were Austrian, of course.

Outside, it was pouring, and it was almost hypnotic to watch the vehicles swishing past and people carrying umbrellas or wearing ponchos. The shop and wine bar were quiet, so it was lovely to sit and chat and watch the world go past.

We each had a second glass of wine - I chose a Sauvignon Blanc this time while Sophie sipped a second Chardonnay. The wine measures were 1/8 of a litre, so not huge. Once we'd paid the bill, we had a look in the wine shop, but it was a futile exercise as we couldn't take any home with us. We weren't sure if we'd be checking our suitcases into the hold, but there was a chance we wouldn't, so any liquids would be taken away from us. It was a bit mad, as at Heathrow we could take what we wanted in our hand luggage!


What a shame we couldn't take any home!

The weather was still horrible, so Sophie summoned up an Uber to take us to the Imperial Crypt. He arrived quickly, but as we neared the area where our hotel was situated, he said he couldn't take us as the roads were closed. It was very lucky he had parked right outside where we were staying! Sophie was furious and hellbent on getting the payment refunded, as he hadn't taken us to our destination and didn't even try to get us there!

We decided to abandon the plan to visit the Imperial Crypt as it was 15 euros each, and instead, we relaxed in the room. We had a late lunch booking at Figlmuller anyway, and Sophie was determined to get her shoes on the way there!

Enormous schnitzels!

We relaxed in the room for an hour before setting out for Figlmuller. Before we took the U-Bahn, we crossed the road and went to Humanic, a shoe shop where Sophie had spotted the Birkenstocks. She asked to try them on and decided they were perfect and would go with a lot of her outfits. They looked so sweet on her!

As well as the shoes, she bought a pair of liner socks, and we set off for the underground, taking the tube one stop to Stephansplatz. We had bought another 24-hour ticket, which would allow us to get the train to the airport tomorrow, rather than taking an Uber or taxi. It was a short walk here to the restaurant, and the area was busy with Saturday shoppers.

When we reached Figlmueller, we saw a queue of people waiting for a table! We were so glad we'd booked, and we were able to go straight in and to our table on a gallery overlooking the ground floor.


We ordered two glasses of Weisburgunder (Chardonnay) and had a good look at the menu. The restaurant is famous for its schnitzel, but I wanted to try something different so I chose the calves' liver, served with onion rings, browned potatoes and an apple slice. Of course, Sophie chose the schnitzel accompanied by a cucumber salad.


We also ordered a large bottle of sparkling water and sat back to soak up the ambience. I loved looking down on the people dining below and was also intrigued by a group of four men at a table opposite. They looked like two sets of sons and fathers.

Sophie was delighted with her schnitzel, but I think I made the wrong choice. The onion rings were lovely, but I just knew the potatoes had been reheated (they have a kind of taste when they've been cooked previously), and my liver was overcooked. Still, the wine was delicious, the atmosphere was great, and the waiters were friendly.

After the main course, I decided to have dessert, and it had to be the chocolate fondant, served with cream. This did not disappoint! Sophie skipped pud and ordered a glass of Schnapps.


It had been a lovely meal, and the service was what I would describe as relaxed, despite the queue of people still waiting outside to get a table! We paid the bill (110 euros) and made our way to another underground station to get the tube back to the hotel.

Unfortunately, my heel was now playing up, so I limped behind Sophie until we got on the train. Back in the room, we relaxed for a while and then showered, ready to go out for 7:30pm. We wanted to spend the evening at the Eurovision Village, next to the Rathaus and could get the underground again.

No bags!

I put on the support bandage I'd bought from Amazon and hoped it would help with my heel. I'd been taking co-codamol, which I think helped a little, but by now I was heartily fed up with the pain. Over the course of the three days so far, we'd walked over 20,000 steps (imagine if we hadn't used trains, trams and buses?) and I think my heel was starting to protest.

When we arrived on the platform, there were a lot of people destined for the Eurovision village. Many of them were carrying flags. We all boarded an empty train and went three stops to the Rathaus. Signs directed us to the village, and there was a lot of construction work going on here.

There was a long line of us heading for the village, and the surrounding roads had been closed. There were numerous police vans parked up, and in front of us, we could see the bright lights of the village and a long queue of people waiting to go in.


If I had read the instructions on the app properly, I would have known that bags were strictly forbidden in the Eurovision village for the final. We queued up, only to be barked at that no bags were allowed. An Englishman behind us told us that he'd been in for one of the semi-finals, and they'd been allowed then, so he was annoyed as well. We could see another tent with yet another queue, and Sophie went to investigate. She said that people were just leaving their bags on a bench in a tent and being given a ticket. 

This certainly didn't appeal to us, and the thought of getting the underground back to the hotel, leaving our bags there, and coming back didn't appeal either! We decided to give it a miss (I imagined it would be crowded and noisy anyway!) and stopped off at a wine bar before heading back to the hotel. 

The woman running the place said we couldn't pay with a card, so, again, we had to be careful of what we ordered with our dwindling euros! We both chose a Campari Spritz and settled back to watch people arriving in waves for the Eurovision Song Contest.



We both felt a little disappointed, but over the course of the last three days, we'd come to realise that we weren't diehard Eurovision fans like we thought we were! We had seen people proudly sporting wristbands and others wearing T-shirts and hoodies. 

As we sat and sipped our drinks, my foot really began to hurt, and I realised it was the support bandage. I took the bloody thing off, and the pain immediately lessened. So much for that, then! What a waste of money!

We finished our drinks, I paid the bill (15 euros), and we made our way back to the U-Bahn station, walking through a pleasant area of bars and restaurants. The Rathaus looked gorgeous all lit up and we'll definitely come back on a future visit.


The underground station was very quiet and only a handful of us boarded the train. There was a quiet atmosphere on the train, and I loved doing a spot of people-watching! Back at Karlsplatz, we emerged from the station and bought two small bottles of wine from the currywurst stand. The Spar was closed, and we never did manage to go in and buy what we needed!

We were able to catch the first song (Denmark), and we both settled down to watch it on the television in our room. No doubt, there were plenty of places in Vienna we could have watched it, but we were content to have a quiet night! While we were watching, Sophie downloaded a food delivery app, Foodora, and ordered some Japanese food - dumplings, crispy chicken and edamame beans.

We both went down to fetch it halfway through the evening and ate at the round table. We had everything we needed - cutlery, plates, bowls and glasses!

We watched until all the songs had been performed and then decided to go to bed. It was past 11:00pm by now, and we were shattered! The results could wait until tomorrow!

Friday, 15 May 2026

Eurovision in Vienna, 14th to the 17th of May, 2026

Channelling "Before Sunrise"

We both woke this morning feeling refreshed after a good night's sleep. I showered and dressed, and while Sophie was finishing getting ready, I went down to the lobby in search of coffee. The hotel provided free coffee, as well as bottles of still and sparkling water. I made myself a Macchiato and went to wait for Sophie on one of the comfortable chairs.


After my first coffee and a bottle of sparkling water, I started to feel human! When Sophie descended, I made her a coffee and had my second. I was then all set for the day ahead!

Sophie had written an itinerary, and we were to take breakfast at the Kleines Café, which was featured in the lovely film Before Sunrise, starring Julie Delpy and Ethan Hawke. It wasn't far away, and we decided to use the underground and buy a 24-hour ticket. We only had one stop, and we were both impressed with the underground, as it was efficient and pleasantly busy. Karlsplatz was a large station with numerous cafés and shops, so it felt a bit like Berlin's Alexanderplatz without the loonies!

Part of the beautiful roof of St Stephen's Church

The Kleines Café was situated on a pretty square with an imposing church opposite. We were able to take a seat inside, which was good as the weather was a little disappointing with grey skies and a chilly wind.


The café didn't take card payments, so we had to be careful with what we spent! I'd changed £100 into euros for tips and coffees, but we hadn't expected to use 30 euros for drinks last night! I chose scrambled eggs with bread, while Sophie opted for an open ham sandwich. We both ordered a "Viennese Melange", a milder coffee, with frothy milk.

There was a kind of edgy vibe in the café. Our waiter was very young and didn't say a lot or smile at all, and the music in the background was The Clash and Siouxsie and the Banshees. I think most of the people visiting the café were there because of the film, so it must bring them in a fair amount of custom!




The food was good, and the bread was deliciously dense. My eggs had actually been cooked properly and were just right!


As we enjoyed our breakfast, the sky cleared, and the sun came out. Our waiter wiped the tables outside, and soon, more customers had arrived to sit and enjoy a coffee in the sunshine. We paid our bill - 40 euros with a tip, which made the waiter give us a big smile at last - and left. Sophie had been messaging Michael over breakfast, and when we went outside, we had a video call with him. He told us he'd managed to get a new job at a golf course, so that was great news!

We had a short walk to a tram stop and waited for the next one to arrive. Sophie was brilliant at navigating her way around the city using public transport, and we really made the most of it on this visit. We only had a short tram ride to the Zollamtssteg bridge that was used for one of the film locations. It spans a river with a railway track underneath.








This area was very quiet, and we stopped for a while to gaze out over the river where a little group of ducks were sunning themselves.

Culture Vultures

Reluctantly, we tore ourselves away and walked back to the tram stop. A building opposite caught my eye. It had an imposing statue of an eagle (?) on top of the roof:



Our tram took us to a beautiful park, the Burggarten, where people were strolling and enjoying the sunshine. We had a booking at the Heidi Horton Gallery between 12:00pm and 12:30pm, and we were looking forward to seeing some modern art.

Burggarten


The gallery was situated in a lovely enclave of buildings, and we were able (with some help!) to leave our bags and coats in a locker. We then enjoyed a wander around the gallery's ground floor, where we admired a painting by Klimt and several by Andy Warhol and Basquiat. I loved the Klimt painting, but remained unmoved by the Warhol and Basquiat art!



Andy Warhol - I didn't mind this one

A collaboration between Warhol and Basquiat


Classic Andy Warhol

Klimt


Mark Rothko


Picasso - Tomato Plant

We were thrilled to find a Magritte, and both of us couldn't stop staring at the painting, which we thought was sinister, but interesting...

One of the Empire of Light series of paintings

We loved the dark house and foreground, against the incongruous blue sky and fluffy clouds. 

Marc Chagall

On the first and second floors was an exhibition "Animalia". There were definitely some quirky exhibits! On the wall was a video playing of a woman dancing naked around sheep... Okaaaaaay!



Sophie wasn't sure about this!

We were delighted to see a Tea Room on the first floor, but it wasn't quite what we were expecting! No tables and chairs to sit and relax with a drink! But it was welcoming and a place to sit and contemplate life, if that's what you wanted!

The ceiling of the Tea Room

Stuffed cuddly toys in jars (not real ones, thankfully!)


Hmmm!

I liked this

The Heidi Horton Gallery was a truly lovely place, and very honest about how the paintings were acquired. Heidi Horton's husband had bought up many Jewish businesses just before the Second World War and profited from them, and there was a sign informing us of this.

We retrieved our coats and bags from the locker, had a quick look at the items for sale in the tiny shop, and then made our way outside. The weather was still beautiful, and we went in search of a drink before our lunch booking a little later.

Among Eurovision fans

Luckily, we stumbled upon Napolino just around the corner and took a seat outside. A friendly waiter took our order for two Aperol Spritzes, and we sat back and relaxed. There was a steady procession of people walking up and down the street, and a short distance away, we could see the Opera House.



Once we had sat down, others had followed, and it was very pleasant sitting in the sun and watching the comings and goings of all the different nationalities sauntering past. However, lunch at the Café Savoy was calling, so we paid the bill and walked back through the park to get the bus.

It was only a short ride to the restaurant, and we were shown to a table. I didn't fancy another schnitzel, and I hadn't worked up a huge appetite, so we both decided to have the fried chicken salad. We ordered a pichet of Grüner Veltliner and sat back to observe our fellow diners, who were mostly male and sporting Eurovision wrist bands and T-shirts. We had stumbled on Eurovision fandom!

The last time we had visited, it wasn't patently obvious that the Café Savoy was a haven for the LGBT+ community, but it was clear today! I then noticed a painting opposite and correctly identified it as a Caravaggio print. It was the same boy who had appeared in the painting we saw at The Wallace Collection in Marylebone, and I recognised him immediately. He had the same insolent look on his face that I had found so disturbing. Thankfully, with this painting, his lower half was covered up!

Caravaggio's Bacchus


With my infantile sense of humour, this made me laugh..."Sophie, you're a Schladminger!"



Lunch

I found lunch a little disappointing as I couldn't taste much, so maybe I should have had the schnitzel as almost everyone else did! The tomatoes were tasty, though!

We paid the bill and took the nearby underground U4 line back to the hotel. It was time for a little nap, a hot shower, a catch-up with the BBC and Sky News (how many times could they say that Wes Streeting had resigned?), and a glass of fizz in our bar before our evening at the opera!

Der Rosenkavalier - an opera by Richard Strauss

Tonight, we dressed up a bit and walked the short distance to the Opera House. We left the hotel at the same time as a Spanish couple, and I couldn't help admiring the woman's beautiful skirt and high-heeled shoes.

Like last time, the interior was stiflingly hot, and we had to ask an usher how to get to our seats. This time, we were seated at the top tier, three floors up. When we arrived, I almost got the collywobbles again as we were high up, but this time there were rails in front of the seats, so I didn't have that awful sense of falling as I did last Saturday in Birmingham.



We took our seats, and I was glad that I was at the end of a row so I could stretch my legs. The opera started at 6:00pm and finished at 10:15pm, with two intermissions. It was a long one! The opera opened with the Marschallin sprawled on her sumptuous bed after spending the night with her young lover, the 17-year-old Octavian. I immediately noticed that Octavian was played by a woman...

The Marschallin was in a philosophical mood and said that soon her young lover would find a woman and leave her. The music was beautiful and the singing exceptional. We were gripped! It transpired that the Marschallin wanted Octavian to be the rose-bearer (Rosenkavalier) for her cousin Ochs' proposal to the beautiful, young Sophie. He agreed, and the first act ended.

We decided to go in search of a drink, and were surprised to see people reclaiming their coats from the cloakroom as if the opera had already ended! We spotted a sign for a buffet up another flight of stairs, and my own Sophie joined the long queue. We didn't know how long the intermission was (despite the timings posted on the wall near the doors!), but as we neared the head of the queue, the first of the bells rang, summoning us back to our seats.

The second act opened with Sophie and her father, and then Octavian appeared, beautifully dressed in silver and carrying the rose. The pair immediately fell in love. When Ochs arrives, he acts lecherously towards Sophie, who realises that she doesn't want to marry him after all and wants to be with Octavian.

The reason why a woman was cast as Octavian became clear when he underwent a disguise as the Marschallin's maid, whom Ochs lusts after, despite being betrothed to Sophie. I doubt a male opera singer would be able to carry it off! We both thought that the opera, despite first appearing in 1911, was very much of our times today and was relevant to a modern audience. The man sitting in front of us was obviously a huge fan, as he kept telling people to be quiet and was quite vociferous in his requests!

When the second act ended, Sophie and I leapt up from our seats and legged it up the stairs to be almost first in the queue for a glass of wine!



While we relaxed with our wine, I chatted with a neighbour, Lynn, on WhatsApp, who was asking if we would buy raffle tickets to help raise money to fight a solar farm planned for our area! It was quite surreal!

The third act started, and it was a bit farcical as Ochs was trapped in a tavern and made a fool of. The ending was beautiful when Sophie and Octavian declared their love for one another. We made our way down the flights of steps and out into the night.



From the sublime to the ridiculous...

We were both feeling hungry now, so we decided to stop at a currywurst stand and have a very late supper! We joined a queue of people with the same idea and ordered a currywurst each, with a portion of French fries. We also treated ourselves to a small bottle of wine each.




We stood with the other revellers and ate our supper, and then walked the very short distance back to the hotel, where we relaxed for a little while before bed. Tomorrow is the final of Eurovision!