Charge anxiety...
I did not have the best night's sleep, unfortunately. I found it difficult to drop off and then was awake several times; I have no idea why! We woke to a grey day, and before we set off, it started to rain. The poor cattle opposite were all huddled together trying to find some shelter, bless them!
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| View from the kitchen of the surrounding hills under a leaden sky! |
We had decided to leave at about 9:30am and drive to Lindisfarne, where we were hoping to be able to charge Olive in a car park. We had about 100 miles of charge, and we were all starting to get worried about the lack of rapid chargers nearby. It had never been our intention to take Olive, and we hadn't rented accommodation with a charging point. The remote location didn't help!
Northumberland is very rural, with small towns and villages dotted about the fells, and it took us over an hour to get to Holy Island, as it's also called, along a series of narrow, winding roads. We had rain for the first part of the journey and then the skies cleared to brilliant sunshine. The scenery was staggeringly beautiful, but I had to concentrate on the challenging roads!
As we turned off the A1, we could see the island in the distance. We had looked up the tide times and knew that we had to be off the island by 1:15pm at the very latest. Getting caught halfway between the island and the mainland would be disastrous! It was amusing to see our satnav enter the sea as we drove along, passing the refuge point halfway. Sand covered the road, and there were pools of seawater everywhere. As we entered the island, we passed sand dunes covered in coarse grass. Some people had parked their cars and were no doubt hiking on the island.
This was our fifth (I think) visit to the island, and we were astonished at how busy it was. On previous visits, we had found the small village quiet and peaceful, and had even stayed overnight on two occasions, enjoying the feeling of being cut off from the mainland by the tide.
Sophie directed us to the car park where we found a small row of charging points. We had enormous difficulty hooking up to one, and had to use our own charging cable. In the end, Sophie had to download an app to use the charger, and became stressed about the whole experience. It certainly wasn't feeling like a holiday for her, poor thing.
Amid the crowds...
We could see a long line of people walking towards Lindisfarne Castle, but as we'd been there before (and there wasn't much to see), we walked into the village. I was determined to buy a bottle of the island's famous mead, and Sophie was desperate for a pint of Guinness. The streets were busy with people wandering about, with many carrying bags from Lindisfarne Mead.
We came to The Manor House Hotel, where Keith and I stayed on our first visit, and went into The Crown and Anchor pub, which was lovely and quiet. Sophie ordered a pint of Guinness, I had a half, and Keith chose a pint of real ale. We sat and chatted, and several people came in, including a couple with two dogs. It was their first visit, and they quizzed the young woman behind the bar, who said she had lived on Holy Island for eight years and loved it. I'm not sure how I'd feel about being cut off from the mainland twice a day! We were keeping a close eye on the time, as we didn't want to cross with hordes of cars!
They had a beautiful poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow on the blackboard over the bar:
"The tide rises, the tide falls,
The twilight darkens, the curlew calls;
Along the sea-sands damp and brown
The traveller hastens toward the town,
And the tide rises, the tide falls.
Darkness settles on roofs and walls,
But the sea, the sea in the darkness calls;
The little waves, with their soft, white hands,
Efface the footprints in the sands,
And the tide rises, the tide falls.
The morning breaks; the steeds in their stalls
Stamp and neigh, as the hostler calls;
The day returns, but nevermore
Returns the traveller to the shore,
And the tide rises, the tide falls."
After our drink, we walked to Lindisfarne Mead, tried tiny samples of three versions, and bought some booze! I chose a bottle of normal Mead and a liqueur, while Sophie treated us to a bottle of ready-made Negroni. I also splashed out on a new glasses case and a Christmas decoration.
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| The Manor House, where Keith and I stayed in 1988 |
We had a slow amble back to the car, found it had charged up to about 100 miles, and managed to get the charger out once we'd locked and unlocked the car. These things are sent to try us! The journey back to the mainland went without mishap, and we stopped halfway to take some photos.
Our plan for lunch was to go to Bamburgh and have something to eat there. We had been before on numerous occasions and had enjoyed eating at the pubs there, as well as walking on the beach and gazing at the impressive castle which dominates the village. It was one of our favourite places to visit in Northumberland, and we were looking forward to showing Sophie the village now that she was older.
It was a lovely journey once we'd turned off the A1, and we followed the Northumberland Coastal Route. The sea looked beautifully blue, and cars were parked along the road with people on the beach. We reached Bamburgh, and I was astonished to see how many people were about, and how many cars were parked along the road. The place was rammed! We had never seen it like that before!
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Bamburgh in 2007: empty!
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| Bamburgh 2007 |
We knew there was a charging point in the car park on the edge of the village, but unfortunately, there was no space. An ice cream van was occupying two of the charging points, so we gave up and returned to the village so Sophie could use the loo. We realised that even if we had managed to park, it would have been difficult to grab a table for lunch, judging by how many people were about!
We continued to Seahouses, but it was rammed with people there as well, all of them meandering about enjoying the sunshine and partaking of the many fish and chip outlets dotted about.
We gave up and decided to head for Rothbury, our nearest town, where we knew there was a charging point in the car park of the cottage hospital. The route we took was undeniably gorgeous and wound its way up and down, around and about, through remote villages and farmhouses, with stunning views and fields of sheep and cows.
It took us a while to get to Rothbury, and we had a short, sharp argument when we arrived at the hospital, as it was a fair walk from the town, and I suggested having lunch first before going back and charging up Olive.
I managed to park on the street, and we entered the first pub we came to, The Queen's Head. It was busy and lively, so we decided to have a drink and visit a nearby restaurant for something to eat. There was a very convivial atmosphere in the pub, and we sat and did a fair amount of people-watching!
It was a short walk to
Bewick's restaurant, an eatery that was run by a London chef who used to have a Michelin star, no less! The restaurant was in a lovely old building overlooking the main street and had an outdoor eating area where people were enjoying the afternoon sunshine. We chose to sit indoors and had a good look at the menu. Sophie said it was different to the one she'd seen online, and we opted for three "small plates" consisting of a Scotch egg, pâté with toast and olives. Sophie ordered a glass of Rosé, Keith had an expensive bottle of beer (£7.95), while I stuck to fizzy water.
By now, we were all hungry, and the food was delicious, but there wasn't enough toast, and the pâté was served in a fiddly little jar. Keith kept vainly trying to get as much out as he could, but failed! He also ate all the salad! How dare he! We would have loved more bread to mop up the sauce from the egg and the olives!
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| It looks like a lot of bread, but it wasn't! |
After we'd eaten and paid the bill, Keith walked back to the car while Sophie and I did some shopping in a nearby Co-op. We bought a pizza and quiche for dinner this evening, as well as wine and beer and salad.
Hanging about!
It was then time to go and park up for a while and charge the car so we could get to the services on the A1 tomorrow! The car park was quieter now, with another car using the second charging point. Sophie had already downloaded the app and put some money on her account, so we hooked Olive up and relaxed. Keith stayed in the car to read the newspaper, while Sophie and I wandered over to a wooden bench and table and scoffed a wrap each as we were still hungry! The views were beautiful, and we could see the surrounding hills and the town spread out below us. It was beautifully peaceful, apart from the happy sounds of children playing in a nearby playground. We could see signs of Autumn everywhere, with the trees changing colour.
We had to wait over an hour to charge Olive up to 150 miles. A rapid charger it was not! Once we had reached our goal, we drove to the cottage and, to our shock, found the front door open... Luckily, nothing had been taken, and we think that the lock was a little faulty and we hadn't closed the door properly this morning. It was a bit alarming, though!
We spent the evening relaxing. Sophie and I sat outside at the front with a glass of wine until the stiff breeze sent us back inside, and I watched a Netflix show about renovating houses in Mississippi. Sophie read while Keith played games on my laptop, and it was lovely and relaxed!
Keith and I watched Unabomber on Netflix over the course of the evening, while Sophie was engrossed in her book. We ate about 8:00pm and even enjoyed a portion of sticky toffee pudding afterwards! Well, we were on holiday!