A poorly daughter...
Sophie woke me at 2:30am this morning, but I'd had such a bad night's sleep, I set my alarm for 3:00am and snoozed for half an hour. When we were all set to go, Sophie said she felt terrible and had had a bad night's sleep as well. Not an ideal start to our break in Berlin!
We left at 3:30am, and Jeeves took us onto the A5 to Dunstable, as a large section of the M1 was closed. It felt very strange taking such a different route, and as we drove, the sky became lighter and lighter. After this diversion, the journey was largely uneventful, except for one confusing section of the M25, which must have just reopened minutes before we reached it. This sent Jeeves into a tailspin, and he kept repeating, "Adhere to the route!" in a weird robotic voice, until we turned him off!
We arrived at Maple Parking in good time and took our seats on a bus bound for Terminal 5. We cleared security easily (without any grumbles from me) and decided to have breakfast at Giraffe. We both chose porridge with fruit and coffee. The food and coffee revived Sophie, who said she felt better, but she was still stuffed up, sneezing and coughing, bless her! She was able to comment to me quietly about the girl at the next table who was sitting with huge curlers in her hair and obviously making a YouTube video of a trip to New York... It was funny when she was asked for ID after ordering a Hugo Spritz!
After breakfast, we made our way straight to the gate and had our cabin bags taken away and put in the hold as the plane was full. We had checked in online and chosen middle and window seats, and Sophie was hoping that the seat next to her would be empty.
We had to board a bus to get to the plane, and soon we were taking our seats. Amazingly, despite the plane being "full", Sophie had an empty seat next to her! Bonus! We had a very pleasant flight indeed; Sophie enjoyed an Aperol Spritz, and I chose a "Trip" drink, meant to induce calm. It sent me off to sleep!
I loved looking out of the window at the clouds and glimpsing the land (and sea) below!
Lunch by the river
We were dreading the EES system, but we used the machines easily, and then queued to go through passport control again. I have no idea why we have to do this, as our fingerprints were taken again, and our passports stamped! I honestly thought that once you go through this rigmarole, it lasts up to three years, and you don't have to go through it all again. Obviously not!
We had decided to take the S-Bahn to Jannowitzbrücke station (a couple of stops before Alexanderplatz) and order an Uber to take us to the hotel. We descended to the station platform and jumped straight onto the S9 to Spandau. We had bought 24-hour tickets and made sure we had validated them before boarding the train. Minutes after the train left the station, we were asked for our tickets. Two guys sitting opposite, who had been on our plane, were told off for not validating their tickets, but the ticket collector's wrath was reserved for a mother and son pair who had not bought a ticket at all! A huge argument ensued with the mother almost screaming at the ticket collector. The ticket collector would not give in, and at the next station, they all got off and carried on their argument on the platform!
A lovely couple boarded with a small dog, and I could see the woman was itching to talk. She asked us if this was our first trip to Berlin, and we had a great chat with them both until they disembarked at another station. Their dog was called Flo, and the woman had family in Birmingham who ran a pub. It was lovely to sit and chat, and another man also joined in, who was American. Only the two lads kept quiet!
It was warm and stuffy on the train, and it was great to leave it at Jannowitzbrücke station and hail an Uber. The driver arrived within minutes and took us the short distance to the hotel. Sophie hadn't wanted to go through all the ups and downs at Alexanderplatz and then take the U-Bahn to Märkisches Museum, and this was an ideal solution.
Thankfully, our rooms were ready and up on the sixth floor. We were given two keys, which confused us slightly, but all was made clear when we entered the room. We had an entrance hall with a tiny kitchenette and two rooms on either side. We both had a bathroom, which was very convenient! My room overlooked the river, the Berliner Dom in the distance, and the blocks of flats.
We unpacked and then strolled over to the Nikolai Quarter for lunch. It was a gorgeous day with sunshine and blue skies. It felt a little weird walking over, as the last time we'd been in Berlin when it wasn't Spring or Summer was in 2013!
The roadworks were still in place on the main road we needed to cross to get to the Nikolai Quarter, but we were soon across and gazing at the views, which never fail to disappoint.
We walked along the river and chose Trattoria San Nicola for lunch. It was pleasantly busy, and the waitress was lovely. We took a table right by the river and watched all the pleasure boats pass by. We were hoping to take a boat ride on Tuesday morning before we went home.
We shared a pizza and a bowl of French fries for lunch, as well as a glass of rosé each. We had ordered a 500ml pichet, and we were delighted to see it was from Bédoin! It was heavenly to be sitting in one of our favourite cities, in the sunshine, with our four-day break ahead of us. The stress of travelling was over, and we could relax!
Sophie had been taking Lemsips for her cold, but after we'd eaten, she started to feel stuffed up again. We decided to return to the hotel for a much-needed nap before going out for dinner at Ephraim's tonight.
Return to Ephraim's
We walked back to the hotel and called into the supermarket on the way to buy milk and some snacks. Before going up to our rooms, we made sure that the bar in the Grosser Kurfurst opposite was open, as we both wanted to have a drink there and enjoy one of Chrizz's signature cocktails. Thankfully, the bar opened at 6:00pm, but the only method of payment was cash... That would rein us in!
It was then time for a nap and a freshen up before we crossed the street again. We hadn't chosen the Grosser Kurfurst as we weren't able to book an apartment or family room, but we were delighted by the Derag Living Hotel Berlin Mitte (formerly the Henriette). I was sure this hotel used to have a bar, but it now seemed to be part of the breakfast room.
The bar was empty, and we were able to sit in our favourite seat - the banquette right next to the bar. From here, we could watch Chrizz at work! Sophie chose one of Chrizz's own cocktails, called Be Fresh, while I indulged in a Black Russian. It was delicious!
Nobody else took advantage of the lovely bar while we were there, which was a shame. Chrizz has won loads of awards for his cocktails and is a fabulous bartender, albeit a little grumpy! As we still had an hour to go before our dinner booking at Ephraim's, we decided to try another drink each. This time I went for a summery cocktail, one of Chrizz's own, called Spring Fever, which was a longer drink and was gorgeous. It contained: Absolut Vanilla Vodka, red orange liqueur, passion fruit syrup, mandarin syrup, orange juice and passion fruit nectar!
Chrizz was a little bemused when Sophie asked him if he could make her a Negroni with cherry liqueur... However, he made it for her and made sure he tested it before handing her the glass! She pronounced it delicious!
We paid the bill and left a tip, which pleased Chrizz and made our way back to the Nikolai Quarter. We decided to sit inside at Ephraim's and took a table in the beautiful front parlour. We both chose the chicken with pineapple curry sauce served with rice and salad, and a 250ml pichet of white wine apiece. It felt very strange to be eating while it was still light outside!
Our waiter had served us before and was lovely and friendly. The food was delicious, and we both found room for dessert - warm pancakes stuffed with blueberries for me, and the layered walnut cake for Sophie. My daughter was fascinated by a family that came to sit behind us, and was amazed at how surly and rude the daughter was!
We paid the bill and decided to have a nightcap at Zille-Destille, where we discovered Berliner Luft last December. On the way, we booked a table at Moon Exquisite for Monday night, and this was where we had enjoyed pre-dinner cocktails last Christmas. It's a South Asian Fusion restaurant, and the schnitzel caught our eye on the menu!
We walked to Stille-Destille and took a seat at an outside table. The Champions League Final between Arsenal and Paris Saint-Germain had just finished with the French side winning. It took a little while to attract the attention of the scatty waiter, but we weren't in any hurry! Nearby were four British lads who were working their way through large glasses of beer, and I was a little shocked to see one of them get up and make his way over to some bushes where he threw up... ugh! Amazingly, they all ordered another round of beers even though I think the staff were in the process of closing off the outside area. This bar is surrounded by apartments, and we had been told the outside area was closing at 10:00pm, presumably because of the local residents. This was fine with us as we had just one Berliner Luft each, which was a perfect ending to our evening!
We walked back along the main street, and Sophie fell in love with BJ, a large black retriever who took a liking to her, and lay down at her feet so she could stroke his furry tummy! His owner came out, and we had a chat, which was lovely!
| A deserted Nikolai Quarter |
It was great to get back to our rooms and look forward to a good night's sleep!