Christmas in Mallorca 23rd of December - 2nd of January

A Boxing Day walk around Pollensa

We awoke to a gorgeous morning with clear blue skies and sunshine! Sophie cooked a Spanish omelette for breakfast, which we ate at the table on the terrace. The washing I'd put out yesterday was still damp, but with the sunshine, I felt it would dry today, a good thing as we were running out of socks!

I took some photos of the house today:

The lower terrace by the kitchen

The street up to the Calvari steps

It was 11am when we were ready to venture out. People were attempting the Calvari Steps and the bars and cafés were open for business. Most of the shops were also open, and Sophie bought a new Christmas decoration in a beautiful place that sold ceramics and art. It was lovely to wander about, look in the shops and soak up the sunshine.

A re-opened La Scalinata

We stumbled upon another shop selling ceramics, where we'd bought pottery back in 2021. I bought a little bowl with a seahorse design and Sophie bought two smaller bowls for nibbles back at home. We made our way slowly to the square and sat at a table at U Placa for a drink. Sophie chose a hot chocolate, I had a coffee (with milk!) and Keith indulged in his first beer of the day. All around people were enjoying the beautiful sunshine and it was warm! I was wearing a short-sleeved top which was perfect under my coat. Earlier we had heard the church bells ringing so there must have been services taking place. There are quite a few churches in Pollensa and all seem to be well-attended.

After our drinks, we made our way to the Roman Bridge on the outskirts of the town. It was a lovely walk through a different part of Pollensa and we met the little ginger cat again, who accompanied us part of the way.

An ancient olive tree?

After visiting the bridge, we strolled back a different way and we were delighted to discover that one of our favourite restaurants was open, Cantonet! We went in and booked a table for Friday night, moving the booking we had at La Placeta until New Year's Day. We were delighted as we'd always had a good meal at this restaurant and I'd had no idea it would be open.

Back at the square, we had a drink at a bar called Tarambana. Sitting in the sun, it was lovely and warm! Other people were peeling off coats and jumpers and it was warm enough to sit in a short-sleeved top. There wasn't a cloud in the sky. 

We spent a pleasant hour chatting and soaking up the sunshine before heading back to the house and having a light lunch of sandwiches. The rest of the afternoon was spent reading and snoozing, and I have to admit to feeling cold in the house, and I wrapped myself in a blanket. The temperature ranges are incredible here with one minute us being hot and the next chilly. It's the time of year!

I tried to sort out my Amazon Prime for Sophie and Keith to watch Newcastle play but it wasn't available in this area. Both of them were pleased when Newcastle won, though!

A mercy dash!

Before we ventured out this evening we discovered we hadn't any paracetamol, a painkiller that Keith's been taking for his toothache. We decided to head towards the nearest pharmacy, just off the square, but we discovered that they were closed today. There was another about five minutes walk away so we set off at a terrific pace to get there before they closed at 7pm. 

Luckily, we made it and then walked more slowly back to the bottom of the Calvari Steps where we had a drink at La Scalinata. It felt hot when we walked in due to our exercise, but we soon adjusted to the temperature and we were lovely and warm! Sophie and I had an Aperol Spritz each, while Keith settled for a beer.

We sat and chatted for an hour and then made our way to La Font del Gall for dinner. The owner held the door open for us and there was only one other table occupied. We hoped more people would be dining as well, but it was just us and the other table who left soon after we arrived.

Sophie and I shared mussels in a cream and garlic sauce, which were delicious, while Keith made do with the bread and olives. I ordered a bottle of Mont Ferrutx, a local red wine. For our main courses, Keith had lamb, I had entrecote steak with grilled vegetables and a half jacket potato (where was the other half, I wonder?) and Sophie had pasta with beef. 

I was a little disappointed with my steak. Parts of it were tough, fatty and chewy and I had to ask Keith and Sophie to help me out as it was large. I'm also having trouble with one of my teeth so I actually found it hard to chew the meat! I won't make that mistake again!

For me, the desserts Sophie and I chose were the stars of the show - perfect, wobbly creme caramels served with chocolate sauce and cream. I honestly wish I'd just ordered the mussels as a starter and the dessert!

We were given little shot glasses of a local green liqueur, paid the bill, and ambled slowly back through the dark, deserted streets to the house. The cocktail bar that Sophie had told us about was open this evening so we might give it a go tomorrow!

Christmas in Mallorca 23rd of December - 2nd of January

We wish you a merry Christmas!

We had a relaxed and low-key Christmas morning and were delighted to see the sun shining when we opened the shutters. It was warm enough for Sophie and me to sit in the little courtyard and enjoy a coffee, and a little later we used up the last of the bread to make toast. I also peeled potatoes and Brussels sprouts for our planned Christmas dinner tonight.

I put a load of laundry on to wash and used the bathroom in the courtyard for my ablutions! The shower cubicle in the main bathroom made me feel claustrophobic yesterday and the one in the courtyard is far more modern!

After we had all showered, we walked to the car to visit Puerto Pollensa and were surprised to see one of the little bars at the bottom of the steps open. People were making the most of the sunshine, sitting and enjoying an early drink or coffee. Café Espanyol, U Placa and the small bar where we'd had our hot chocolate were closed, but Club Pollenca was open, and two couples were sipping Cava.

Surprisingly, Puerto Pollensa was busy and as we negotiated the roundabout by the marina, several bars were doing a roaring trade! We parked the car behind the town and walked in, deciding to stop for a drink at a seafront restaurant, which was buzzing with people enjoying the gorgeous sunshine.

Families strolled past, and some children were playing on the beach. Everyone was well wrapped up but in the sun it was pleasantly warm. Only the chill wind occasionally reminded us that it was December! We ordered drinks and spent a couple of hours chatting and enjoying the ambience. 

Cheers!

It was so lovely sitting in the sun that we lingered far longer than we'd anticipated. By 2pm we decided to have a couple of tapas dishes for lunch, and Keith chose a tuna sandwich. Sophie and I ordered nachos and patatas bravas, and the food was very good indeed. The restaurant had been doing a roaring trade all morning so there was some sense in staying open in the winter!

Christmas on the beach!

Reluctantly, Sophie paid the bill (it was her treat) and we strolled slowly back to the car. From the car park, we set off towards Alcudia but then doubled back when the inland road met the gorgeous coastal route. We drove back towards Puerto Pollensa and marvelled at the stunning views of the town and the mountains towering over it.

We parked the car on the side of the road, opposite some beautiful apartments and houses. Sophie wanted to dip her toes into the sea, so that's what she did!

Our little Ford

There was hardly anyone on the beach, except for a couple of families and people walking dogs. It felt wonderful to be near the sea and admire the stunning views. The coastal route between Alcudia and Puerto Pollensa has always been a favourite drive in our family. We walked back to the car and decided to visit Cala San Vicente before going back to the house.

Again, the drive around the headland and down to Molins Beach is breathtaking! Last time, this section of road was closed, which was disappointing, but today we were able to drive around and see the stunning views. The sea looked rough, with big waves breaking against the beach and rocks. We parked the car in the convenient car park and I won 5 euros from Keith as we'd had a bet about whether the Bar Mallorca was open - it wasn't!

Sophie and I went down to the beach which was littered with driftwood, including some large tree trunks.

We walked a little way towards the headland where the waves were really violent! Every now and again a tall column of water would erupt from a hole and there was a constant groaning, like a malevolent sea creature beneath us!

You can just glimpse the spray from the hole

There were a few people about, but not many, and we strolled back to the car noting the new hotel opposite the beach. It was firmly closed up but I would guess this area is busy in the summer. This was the first time we saw the finished hotel as, before on our visits, it was still being built.

Back in Pollensa, everything was so quiet with hardly anyone about. All the shops, bars and restaurants were closed (as we expected them to be) and we walked slowly back to the house where we relaxed. I wanted to see the sun set at 5.30pm so I went up onto the roof terrace. I could see curls of smoke where people had lit fires and the sky was hazy and peach-coloured over towards Puerto Pollensa. At 5.30pm, the church lights came on and it became much chillier. Time to go down to the warm living room!

Rooftop panorama

Keith had the heating on and a small radiator emitting heat but the house has been cold. These old stone houses are designed to be cool in the summer but they're a little chilly in winter. We used the blankets that had been left for us and settled down to read. Sophie and I enjoyed a delicious Mallorcan white wine while Keith drank beer. There was nothing to watch on the television but we did catch some tennis later in the evening. As we'd had a substantial lunch, we decided to postpone our steak dinner until Saturday and eat at lunchtime on the sunny terrace.

Keith was unable to get warm this evening!

When we went into the dining area to have pizza and salad for a light supper, we were all frozen! The fluctuations in temperature are huge! In the sun it's warm enough to sit out with just a tee-shirt, but once the sun disappears you remember it's definitely December!

Merry Christmas!

 

Merry Christmas from Mallorca!

Christmas in Mallorca 23rd of December - 2nd of January

A relaxed start to the day!

It took us a while to get going this morning, and I spent a very pleasant half hour sitting at the table in the courtyard, soaking up the sun and reading the newspaper. The sun felt lovely and warm! By 11 am, we were breakfasted, showered, and ready to hit the streets of Pollenca.

Keith wanted to go to the larger Eroski in Puerto Pollensa so we took a leisurely walk back to the car, popping into a pharmacy to buy something for Keith's toothache and plasters for Sophie's heels. The chemist gave us a gift, so we'll open that tomorrow!

It wasn't far to Puerto Pollensa and the Eroski on the outskirts. Bearing in mind that today was Christmas Eve, it wasn't as manic as it would undoubtedly be at home! We parked in the horrible underground car park and made our way to the supermarket. Having looked at restaurants and realised that most would be closed, we decided to cook ourselves on Christmas Day, so we bought steak, potatoes, Brussels sprouts (yes, really!), mushrooms and a slab of Tiramisu for dessert. 

We loaded the shopping in the car and headed back to Pollenca. This time I had a van driver right behind me the whole way back to the house, which was unnerving. I wasn't able to park opposite the entrance to our tiny street so had to pull in further up the road. Keith and Sophie took the shopping to the house and when they returned I had to reverse back down the hill. It was not a pleasant experience...

Traffic troubles!

On the way back to the outskirts I met another car and had to reverse to let him past, and then we met a second vehicle who had to reverse down a long stretch of road to give me access! We all agreed that this would be the last time we'd do this until we had to take the car up to load our luggage! I'm surprised that cars are still allowed through the tiny streets. In Provence this year, one village was car-free and people had to park on the outskirts to visit!

We parked the car and walked back to the square where we decided to have a drink at U Placa. Sophie asked if they were open in the evening, but they were closed so we decided to have lunch instead. We ordered a glass of Sangria apiece, Keith had a beer, and we looked at the menu. Quite a few of the tapas dishes weren't available, so Sophie and I chose a meat paella while Keith went for fish and chips.

Sophie proudly sporting her Newcastle tee shirt!

The square was busy with people celebrating Christmas and large family groups had gathered to eat and drink. It was very convivial. Behind us, men were working in the large marquee, and every now and then music would blast out loudly. Thankfully, it was only short bursts!

Our paella was lovely, and the portion was huge for the two of us, but I still prefer Sophie's version, even if it perhaps isn't strictly authentic! It was lovely sitting outside but I began to regret my short-sleeved top as the wind picked up. Everyone was wearing padded coats but it was still far warmer than it would have been at home. When we go out again, I'll wear my coat over a top!

After paying, we strolled back to the house, taking it slowly as our tummies were full! We walked past La Scalinata and it looked closed, so no cocktails tonight then!

Back at the house, we relaxed for a couple of hours before Sophie and I decided to have a walk and then call in for a hot chocolate at a café on the square. This time I made sure I was wearing my warm coat and scarf!

Visiting old haunts

We left Keith at the house and walked back down the steps to Ideas, a beautiful shop selling jewellery, clothes, accessories and silk scarves. Sophie picked out two pairs of earrings and I stroked one of the two cats that wandered in. 

La Scalinata

It was lovely to stroll around the almost deserted town. We called in at a wonderful delicatessen/supermarket next to La Font del Gall that stocked a wide range of essentials, as well as wine and beer. I wish we had known about this yesterday as we needn't have gone to the Eroski on the outskirts of town! Sophie bought a bottle of white Mallorcan wine and a beer for Keith and I treated us to a slab of chocolate and biscuits!

We strolled along the road and found the old Ca'n Costa restaurant, which looks like it's been split into two apartments. Some of the old camera equipment (it was once a cinema) was displayed in the entrance hall. I miss this gorgeous restaurant as it used to be my favourite place to eat.

Ca'n Costa no more

Continuing along the street we arrived at the Son Sant Jordi Hotel where we stayed in 2021. They were open so Sophie booked a table for Friday night. We ate at La Placeta years ago and had a very disappointing experience, so I hope it will be better later this week!

On the way back, we met a little ginger and white cat who took a liking to us and followed us! I wanted to find another old favourite, Trencadora, so we followed directions on my phone (it had been a while since we ate there) and the little cat trotted along with us!

Deserted streets

We found Trencadora, firmly closed for the winter, and we peered through the gates into the garden. We had some lovely meals here and I had great memories of the beautiful restaurant and the seating in the garden.

Opposite was an art gallery, also closed for the winter. Ah well!

We walked the short distance back to the square (I remembered the way to the restaurant now!) and saw that U Placa and the Café Espanyol were now closed. The trees were lit up and there was a real festive air.

We visited a small café/bar and sat down next to a lively Spanish family. Sophie ordered us hot chocolate and it was delicious and thick. A lot of the waiters from the two restaurants had gathered to have a drink and wind down for Christmas. 

After paying the bill, we decided to head back, admiring the decorations in the square and noticing a long queue of people with children who were waiting to get into the marquee. To see Father Christmas perhaps?

Il Giardino and Ca'n Olesa were also closed, as was a boutique hotel on the edge of the square. We meandered back up towards the steps and some of the jewellery and clothes shops were still open for last-minute Christmas gifts. 

We pulled ourselves up the three flights of steps to our street and collapsed on the sofa in the living room. Phew! It had been a lovely walk!

Christmas from the Vatican

We spent a very relaxed evening in the cosy living room with the heating on and watched a Christmas service live from the Vatican. Sophie made us drinks (a G&T for me, Vodka and ginger for her). We don't have Netflix here but it was great to watch the service and then see Spain's King Felipe VI give his Christmas speech (I found out he's fifteen days younger than me).

At about 9pm we ate some nibbles, but by 10pm we were all ready for bed. Bring on Christmas tomorrow!