A few weeks ago, while driving to work, I learned that the London Marathon was to take place today, and I'd groaned as we had unwittingly planned the first day of our Paris trip to coincide with this major event. We had decided to take the Eurostar to Paris and had booked a train from Kettering to take us to St Pancras for our 11:30am departure.
There was nothing we could do about it, but we had both readied ourselves for a busy train to London. While Sophie finished getting ready, I wrapped a bottle of Champagne (a gift from Sophie's work buddies) in foil and put a generous number of sausage rolls into a ziplock bag. We also added some flapjacks and a couple of breakfast bars to keep us fortified on the journey. This all went into a cool bag, ready to be consumed when we went through the Channel Tunnel and into France!
Keith dropped us off at the station, and the weather was grey and cool. I tried not to shiver in my short-sleeved dress! I knew, however, that it was set to be sunny and warm later in the day. Once the station shop had opened, we treated ourselves to a coffee and went to wait on the platform. More and more people started arriving, some carrying placards as they were going to support people who were running. We then had an announcement that the train was very busy, as it had originated in Derby.
We had three more announcements that the train was busy, so we readied ourselves for a standing journey down to the capital. We also had two small suitcases with us, which would take up space! When the train arrived on the platform, we squeezed ourselves into the small area by the doors; the aisle running between the seats was already full of people. It was horrendous! We had no windows to look out, and we were crammed in like sardines. To be honest, it was dangerous. A woman standing next to us was very unhappy and said she felt it was unsafe, as none of us had anything to hold onto when the carriages lurched from side to side.
As we carried on down to London, more and more people tried to board. Now, men were turning up wearing Leeds United football shirts, and Sophie was convinced one man groped her as he pushed past to try and get further down the train. Everyone was complaining about the conditions, and we wondered why an additional service hadn't been put on. EMR must have known the service would be busy!
At Bedford, we had an empty train running next to us, which added insult to injury! We were informed by the train manager that we could take a Thameslink train to London, but that wasn't an option for us! How the train was able to move with everyone was beyond me!
It was utter relief to arrive at St Pancras, and we followed the signs to the Eurostar check-in area. We were just on time to go through passport control and security. Sophie wasn't expecting this at all and was a little surprised to find we had to put our luggage through the X-ray machines. She was frisked because of her bracelets, but, for once, I wasn't stopped!
The Merry Widows!
Once through, we entered a very busy area where people were waiting for the next train, bound for Amsterdam. Boarding started half an hour before the train left, and once the Amsterdam lot was boarding, we were able to find a table outside Pret A Manger and sit and have a drink. I bought two bottles of water and a small bar of chocolate each to get over the shock of the train journey!
Our train was soon available to board, and we joined the throng of people on the escalator up to the platform. We found our carriage, put our suitcases onto the luggage racks and found our seats. They were airline-style, with footrests and trays. Next to us, on the right, were four seats with a table between them. Our seats were comfortable, and we were facing in the direction of travel, which we prefer.
The carriage gradually filled up as people found their seats and placed bags in the overhead shelves. At 11.30am, we set off, and the people next to us comprised two American women (in their 80s, we later found out, and travelling with their daughters who were sitting behind us) and a couple from New Zealand. A Japanese couple were in the seats in front. As we wound our way through the outskirts of London, there was a party air in our carriage, which was lovely! By now, the grey skies had turned blue, and it was a gorgeous day.
Soon, we were out of London, and we saw the Dartford Bridge. We then picked up speed and hurtled through the Kent countryside, and the four people next to us began to chat. It was great as we could hear what they were saying, but we didn't have to contribute! We learnt that the two women were widowed and the New Zealand couple were visiting friends in Paris. The American women took out boxes with Harrods "The Georgian" on them, which were leftovers from a very posh afternoon tea! They certainly knew how to have a good time!
Very soon, we saw the Eurotunnel check-in, and before long, we were under the Channel. Sophie and I had a bet as to how long we would be under, and I won, as we emerged nineteen minutes later at 12:23, a minute later than I said. It was much shorter than the trip by Eurotunnel, which is thirty-five minutes!
We'd let the Champagne stand for a while, as I was worried the cork would come out with a lot of force, and we wrapped tissues around the neck and covered it with a bag in case the cork flew out and hit someone! This aroused the interest of the four people next to us, and I was relieved when I eased the cork out with a satisfying plop! We were asked if it was a special occasion, and we said it had been Sophie's 30th birthday a few weeks ago.
We'd brought Sophie's Wimbledon plastic glasses with us, and as the French countryside whizzed by at just under 300km an hour (186 miles), we sipped the wine and munched on Keith's delicious sausage rolls. The American women tucked into scones and cakes, and the New Zealand pair ate Eurostar risotto with small bottles of wine. In front, the Japanese couple unwrapped their sushi. There was a real festive atmosphere, and it was delightful!
I loved staring out of the window, seeing the flat Northern French countryside pass by, and glimpsing cars on the autoroute and small villages and farms. We passed Arras and then Lille, where we slowed down slightly, and had a lovely chat with the four people next to us. One of the daughters went to bring the Mums a bottle of wine each, and they were having a wonderful time, chatting happily to the New Zealanders and us. We told them about going to Vienna in May, and they couldn't quite grasp what Eurovision was all about!
Manic Paris!
All too soon, the wonderful journey was over, and we were pulling into the Gare du Nord. We said goodbye to everyone and wished them a lovely time in Paris. Collecting our luggage, we stepped off the train and into the madness that is the Gare Du Nord and Paris itself. Outside, taxis were waiting, but we were reluctant to take one, as we'd heard stories of tourists being ripped off. Several people tried to get us to take one, but Sophie had booked an Uber, which met us a short distance away. The area was thronged with people and heavy traffic; it was a complete shock to the system after the genteel train ride! We kept our bags close to us, and our phones inside, as we didn't want someone ruining our holiday before it had even begun! We were very aware of the people around us, and didn't let our guard down for one minute!
Our hotel wasn't far away, and we both stared out of the taxi windows as we made our way there. For some reason, there were lots of wedding outfit shops, with rows of male mannequins standing outside. Bizarre! This area looked quite seedy, with shabby shops and graffiti-covered buildings, and I was glad we had chosen to stay at the Terrass Hotel in Montmartre.
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| Scene from an Uber |
Our driver had difficulty dropping us off as the road was closed, and he got out of the car and disappeared for a few minutes, which was slightly unnerving. However, he managed to turn around and dropped us off right outside. We were met by a lovely hotel receptionist who carried our bags in for us, and took our details, as well as a 130 euro holding fee using Sophie's card. This was for the use of the minibar (we never used it) and a tourist tax. He then gave us a map of the area and pointed out a circular walk which would take in all the sights of this beautiful part of Paris.
A rooftop drink with views!
We were in room 301, and as we emerged from the lift, the corridor was dimly lit and dark. Our room was on its own and opposite the lift. We opened the door, and we were met by a lovely, bright hotel room with views over the busy area below. When I leaned out of the window, I could see the Eiffel Tower in the distance!
We had a double bed, a lovely bathroom with a walk-in shower and adequate storage, with a safe and minibar. We unpacked, stowed our passports and tickets in the safe and relaxed after the long journey. The bed was comfortable, and we both hoped for a good night's sleep!
Sophie had booked an early evening table at Bouillon, so we freshened up and made our way to the seventh floor, where there was a cocktail bar and views across the city. It was already busy with people, but we took our seats at a high table and ordered a glass of rosé each. It was very warm, and the sun was shining onto the beautiful terrace. What more could we want? Delicious wine, and views of Paris in the Spring!
All around us, people were eating and drinking and enjoying the ambience. A man opposite was marking some kind of manuscript, and we couldn't help people watching! We sat and sipped our wine, but the time was getting on, so we paid the bill (about 20 euros for two glasses of wine and service) and descended to street level.
Sophie had the directions for Bouillon on her phone, and we walked towards the Rue des Abbesses, where there were numerous bars, cafés and restaurants. It was a Sunday evening, but the establishments were packed with people eating, drinking and having a great time.
We realised we had enough time for another drink, so we sat down at an empty table, only to be told that a couple were waiting for it! Oops! We walked on and made our way to Pigalle through a maze of narrow, cobbled streets, some of which were very steep indeed! Montmartre is situated on a hill, and the streets are very steep with steps in some parts. A funicular runs up to Sacre Coeur at the top.
Close neighbours!
We came to Pigalle, once the hangout of prostitutes, and now home to the Moulin Rouge as well as numerous sex shops and live sex shows, and we marvelled at how busy it was! We saw Bouillon on a corner, but it looked like a takeaway shop... Sophie became very worried, but when she consulted her map, she realised it was just a small outlet. The proper restaurant was a bit further on! There was a queue outside already, but as we had a reservation, we were able to bypass this. However, Sophie then realised she'd booked the table for 6:30pm, not 6:00pm, so we were told we were too early. The restaurant was heaving with people, and the queue stretched around the corner. It was certainly very popular, and also manic!
Luckily, there was a bar opposite, so we grabbed a table overlooking the street and ordered two more glasses of rosé. These were 4,5 euros each, half the price of the hotel bar! We sat back, and we were agog at the busy road running alongside the bar, the traffic, the bikes, the tooting of horns, the crowds of people walking past...
On a screen above us was the Chelsea-Leeds match, so we texted Keith to let him know! The supporters we'd seen boarding the train this morning wouldn't have been very happy as Leeds were losing!
At the appointed time, we went back to Bouillon, and after a little while, we were shown to a table upstairs. I had a view over the busy road, and our fellow diners were extremely close. I nudged elbows with the woman to my left several times!
We were given menus and waited a considerable time to have our orders taken. We both chose the egg mayonnaise to start, while Sophie went for turkey in a sauce, and I decided to have a pork shank with chips. We ordered a bottle of house rosé and were given another bottle of tap water.
The waiters were flying about, and we witnessed several breakages as they tried to carry overloaded trays. One plate of beef bourguignon and pasta went flying, and the poor waiter had terrible trouble clearing it all away! It was crowded and noisy, and our senses were overwhelmed!
Our starters arrived and were dispatched quickly. Those sausage rolls were a long time ago! We also had a basket of bread, which we used to mop up the thick mayonnaise. There was no salad or fancy presentation!
The couple next to us were finishing their meal, and I was amazed at how quickly the table was set again. The top paper sheet was whipped off, a fresh one put on, four wine glasses and cutlery plonked down, and that was it! All set for another couple!
Our main courses arrived, and Sophie was very happy with her meal, but I had made the wrong choice. I had a thick knuckle of pork in a sweet sauce with chips, and that was it. No vegetables to speak of! While we were finishing our main courses, a young couple arrived, and when Sophie started telling me a story about a Love Island participant, the woman joined our conversation. The couple were Canadian, and Sophie got on very well with the woman who was the same age. They had a wonderful chat!
We ordered dessert: a chocolate mousse for me and Floating Islands for Sophie, and then paid the bill, which was under 50 euros. This was why it was so popular! We said goodbye to the Canadian couple who were in Paris for a few days before going on to Amsterdam, and made our way out of the heaving restaurant where the queue still snaked around the corner!
Street Art
Because of our full tummies, we had a very slow walk back to the hotel. We took the quieter streets, and they were a world away from the madness we had come from. We saw various street art pictures, and the area reminded me a little of Hackescher Markt in Berlin. There were a few quirky bars and shops dotted about, and a group of people had spilled out of one bar and were enjoying their drinks in the street in the warm evening air. I itched to take a photo of a man with purple hair bottle feeding a baby!
Some of the art reminded me of Banksy's graffiti, and it was all very quirky and novel! Slowly, we walked up a steep street, noticing several quieter restaurants which looked promising for tomorrow night.
Back at the hotel, we decided to complete our day with a nightcap at the rooftop bar. It was still very busy, and we were asked to sit in an adjoining area and wait for a table. Sophie ordered a Negroni, while I chose a Drambuie, which seemed to confuse the waiters completely. In a gap through the foliage, I could see Sacre Coeur above us.
We were soon called through to the main terrace, and I sank into a two-seater sofa while Sophie took a chair facing the Eiffel Tower. On the hour, until 1:00am, it glitters and dazzles, which was wonderful to see! What a treat!
We ordered another round of drinks, chatted about the holiday so far and did more people watching. It was fascinating!
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