Our French and Spanish Adventure - September 9th - 23rd

Disappointed in Vouvray

Although it was cooler outside, the house was still warm and stifling. We packed up, had coffee and pains au chocolat, and loaded the car. I wanted to pop to Vouvray, to look around and take photos, so we headed back the way we came yesterday from the autoroute. This was a lovely road, but there was a steep drop on the driver's side and I made sure I concentrated on the road! All along the route were chateaux and vineyards offering wine tastings. I really wished we had longer to explore, and we spotted signs for Montlouis as well, the sparkling Loire wine we had at our wedding.

There wasn't a great deal open in Vouvray and the places selling wine didn't open until 10am, which was a bit late for us. We parked in a side street, as we'd spotted a lovely shop selling wines and produce, but a man was waiting outside and we couldn't go in as he was in the queue! How bizarre! I thought the days of queuing to get into shops were well and truly over! We gave up on this and got back into the car, stopping at a vigneron to take a photo and clean the car's windscreen.

One of the many producers in the village

Reluctantly, we left the village, filled up with petrol and headed towards the autoroute, about an hour and a half away. 

No, we aren't coming to the car boot!

Trish, with her usual fetish, directed us onto some very narrow country roads, and in the absence of hedgerows, we could see for miles over the fields of spent sunflowers and maize. We came to a village and the traffic abruptly stopped. We had no idea what was ahead, and every now and again we'd move, and then there'd be a line of cars coming the other way.

People were walking along the path next to the road carrying various things and I guessed it was a Sunday market or a car boot sale. There was an officious little man directing the pedestrians and traffic and we had to wait ages to get going again! Only we could get stuck in a local market taking place! There was a huge field covered in tents and another filled with cars so it looked very popular!

A creepy coffee

Our route took us along more empty D roads through wide open countryside, interspersed with beautiful villages, all with an impressive town hall. Halfway along the route we saw a sign for a picnic area and pulled in to have a coffee. It was the creepiest, eeriest place, with abandoned wooden trailers dotted about, covered in graffiti. I really didn't like it at all! Keith went off exploring between the trees and Sophie shouted at him to come back to the car. Sundays in France are renowned for hunting and the last thing we wanted was for him to be mistaken for a wild boar! We hurriedly drank our coffee and got back into the car as quickly as we could. The thought of pulling up there at night gave me the shivers!

We all felt genuinely sad when we turned back onto the autoroute and headed south towards Rocamadour. It was hot again, and about 30c, and the countryside was baked dry. We stopped at a busy aire and bought a sandwich and some water. Just after we arrived, a huge group of French army cadets descended and took over the entire building so it was time to leave!

A peaceful retreat

Trish took us off the autoroute and directed us to Rocamadour the way we had left last year when I started freaking out about the narrow roads and the lack of space if we met another vehicle... Thankfully, the roads were so deserted we never met anything and we made it to L'Hospitalet without mishap!

A group of English cyclists arrived at the same time as us, evidently on a cycling tour of the area. They all looked very hot indeed! Matthew remembered us from last year and took us over to the same apartment, which was great! We unpacked what we could, bunged some water into the freezer to keep things cool for tomorrow and headed back to L'Hospitalet for a cold beer.

We managed to grab a parking space in the middle of L'Hospitalet and strolled over to a small bar. Sophie and I had lager shandies while Keith had a pint and it was extremely pleasant sitting in the sun and chatting.

L'Hospitalet was busy with people wandering about or having food and drinks at the numerous cafés and restaurants. It wasn't too hot either and there was a lovely breeze which made all of us feel better.

After a couple of drinks, Sophie and I popped into a local shop and had a look at the wines, spirits and food delicacies on offer, accepting a small piece of toast topped with foie gras from the owner. We had a good look around and I bought a walnut liqueur and oil while Sophie bought a bottle of Rosé and some beer and biscuits for Vikesh.

Before going back to the hotel we visited the beautiful church and Sophie lit two candles for the cats, bless her. Back at our apartment, I sat outside with Keith on the terrace, gazing over the beautiful landscape and chatting.

Drinks and dinner

All too soon it was time to get ready and go out. We'd emailed a restaurant in L'Hospitalet and had booked a table for 8pm. This restaurant, Le Belvedere, had views over to Rocamadour itself and the food looked good.

First of all, though, we had a drink at the hotel, served by a very jovial Matthew who seemed genuinely happy to see us again. We sat outside as the sun was setting and it was indeed, the "Golden Hour." The sun, slowly sinking in the sky, was beautiful.

Sophie met a new friend!

We enjoyed our drinks and then drove the very short distance to L'Hospitalet where we just about managed to park the car. The Hotel Belvedere has its own restaurant overlooking the gorge and the views were stunning, especially at sunset. 

The maitre d' found our reservation and we were shown to our table (no view, unfortunately). Sophie and I chose marinated courgettes served with burrata, while Keith opted for the paté en croute. Keith and I went for the steak for a main course and Sophie chose the steak tartare. We drank a red from Pic St-Loup which was a very reasonable 23 euros. 

The restaurant was mainly full of Brits of a certain age (the cyclists were next to us) but there was a great atmosphere and the staff were friendly. We were just glad we'd booked a table this time!

Sophie and Keith shared a chocolate dessert while I opted for the panna cotta served with red fruits. By now, the restaurant was emptying out and we had to pay the bill at the bar, for the second time this holiday! It came to a shade under 150 euros and after we paid, we walked back to the car through the silky darkness, gazing out at the lit-up Rocamadour opposite.

Back at the apartment, I wanted to sit on the terrace again but our bed was calling! It had been another long, but very enjoyable day!