I awoke to find a stewardess asking if I wanted any fruit juice. We were just over half an hour away from Dubai International Airport. Everyone was waking up, and the lights had been turned on. We landed at Dubai in the dark, but the view of the airport and all the lights was beautiful.
I said goodbye to the woman who had been sitting next to me and decided to visit the airport with the two men who had been sitting in the seats behind. Their names were Doug and Derek.
The outside of the airport resembled an Arabian palace and was made entirely of white marble. Tall palm trees surrounded the building, and there was an abundance of exotic flowers everywhere. We walked along a long corridor, lined with plants, and the white marble floors shone as if they were wet. The airport was luxurious but also very quiet. We ordered strong black coffee and sat down to marvel at the wealth surrounding us.
Before we were able to get back onto the plane, we had to go through an X-ray scanner, and I chatted to an Arab guard who carried a machine gun in his belt. He asked where I came from in England, and spoke the language fluently. As we emerged from the airport, the sun was rising over the desert, and the sight was beautiful. The airport shone, but I didn't dare take any photographs!
Back on the plane, I sat in the window seat and Doug sat in the aisle seat writing his diary. Breakfast was served, and we flew over the desert, where we could see oil wells burning, and then over the Persian Gulf, where we could see hundreds of tankers. After the Gulf, we flew over barren, desolate landscapes devoid of trees or greenery. I tried to sleep as my watch said it was 4am.
We landed in Karachi at 9am local time, and the heat hit me like a wave as I stepped off the plane. We were shepherded together by an airport official and taken to a transit lounge. Five of us were travelling on to Kathmandu. Thankfully, the transit lounge was air-conditioned, and we had a three-hour wait before our next flight left.
There was nothing to do but sit and talk, and Doug and Derek told me of their travels to South America and their cycling tours across North America. We decided to try the Pakistani coffee and sat sipping it while watching five airport workers doing a removal job with the transit lounge seating. They were directed by a large man wearing the local attire of a long white shirt and baggy trousers. They spent more time sitting and chatting rather than doing any work!
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| View from the transit lounge, Karachi Airport |
There were several other European passengers, and they all looked as if they were headed to Kathmandu as well. We boarded the midday plane to Kathmandu after being rigorously searched. Surrounding each plane waiting to take off were armed guards with their hands resting on their machine guns at their side.
The aircraft was a smaller 737, and it was uncomfortably crowded. Thankfully, the flight wasn't long and I managed to get some sleep.
After three hours of flying, I could see a glimpse of the Himalayas, and I knew we'd be arriving soon. As we neared the airport, I could see the outskirts of Kathmandu clearly. Everything looked lush and green, and there was a soft golden light over the city.
Landing felt very strange. I'd wanted to visit Nepal for so long and had dreamed about what it would be like, so it was a weird feeling to actually be landing. It was hot, and we walked to the main airport building, admiring the range of mountains in the distance. I recognised the "Welcome to Nepal" sign from a photograph I'd seen in a travel book. I changed £60 in Nepalese rupees and passed through passport control.
Chaos and disorder reigned in the airport! We waited for our luggage to arrive, and I stood and stared at the groups of Nepalese men, most of whom were standing around holding hands. It was a complete culture shock!
Thankfully, my luggage, although slightly battered and dirty, was intact. Doug and Derek waited anxiously for their bicycles, which aroused considerable interest. We passed through Customs, and I said my goodbyes to them and wished them luck on their trip.
I emerged from the airport and was immediately set upon by a multitude of taxi drivers who all seemed to want to take me to a "Very good hotel, madam! Very cheap!" I picked one and asked him how much the fare would be to the Kathmandu Guest House. He told me it would be 55 rupees (slightly more than £1), and as we drove, he chatted away to me happily, pointing out the Royal Palace and telling me that the guest house was always busy. Luckily, I'd booked a room!
The noise of the car horns deafened me, and I was shocked at the poverty everywhere. The colours of the Nepalese clothes were beautiful, though, and I saw cows wandering around in the middle of the road. Everything was so strange and different, and I found it difficult to take it all in.
Thamel was crowded and noisy, and the streets were narrow and dirty. The Kathmandu Guest House was situated in the heart of Thamel, but was off the main road, so it was quiet and cleaner. Thankfully, they had my room booking, but I had to wait half an hour for it to be cleaned. A young man, whom I later learned was Raju, said there would be a meeting for those participating in the trek at 6 pm. Once in my room, I lay on the bed and felt homesick and alone. I dreaded the thought of meeting my fellow trekkers, whom I imagined would be very fit.
After a wash, I went downstairs to the Encounter Overland office and found Raju sitting at the desk. When I asked him how many were on the trek, he said there were just three of us. I'll never forget how amazed I was hearing this, and I immediately asked him what my fellow trekkers were like.
They soon turned up, and Corrie walked in first. He seemed as surprised as I was! Matthew came in next, and we all agreed that it was great to have just three of us. I was relieved it was a small group, and then it dawned on me I'd be the only female! We drank rum and Coke, and Raju told us about the trek and what it involved.
Outside, it began to get dark, and we could hear the crickets in the gardens. I liked Corrie and Matthew immediately, and they seemed to like me as well. I began to look forward to the trek even more. We all got on well and chatted easily, which was good seeing as we'd be living together for ten days!
At 8pm, I returned to my room and immediately fell asleep.
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