Off to London for the day!
It's Mike's 26th birthday today, but he is spending it with Abbie in Nottingham. We've arranged to meet up next week for a meal to celebrate. Meanwhile, Sophie had bought tickets for her and me to see David McCloskey, a former CIA analyst and author of spy thrillers, at Daunt Books in Marylebone. We had decided to head down mid-morning from Kettering train station and spend the afternoon pootling about the area and enjoying ourselves!
We took the 11:19am train from Kettering, which was new to us! Keith dropped us off, and we reminded him that we'd be back just after 10:00pm tonight. The journey to St Pancras was smooth, and we chatted all the way. The carriages were sparsely populated; what a difference to the packed trains to Euston!
We hailed a black cab outside The Renaissance Hotel and took it to Marylebone High Street. First up was a coffee at the new Gail's, and a snack. Sophie actually chose a matcha tea and a ham and cheese croissant, while I settled for a Flat White and a ham and leek mini quiche. This would need to keep us going until our 5:00pm booking at the Austrian restaurant, Fischers, a little way up the street.
From Gail's, we visited our usual haunts: Daunt Books, Oxfam and Bayley and Sage, where I bought myself a bar of soap. We then wandered down to have a look at
The Wallace Collection, housed in Hertford House on Manchester Square.
A plethora of boobs and bums!
There was an exhibition of Caravaggio's Cupid underway, but first we deposited our coats and scarves in a free locker and visited the café for a glass of wine and a bowl of mixed salted nuts.
The café was lovely, set in a covered courtyard in the middle of the building. We lingered over our wine, but as time was getting on, we paid the bill and went down to the lower ground floor for the Caravaggio exhibition. This consisted of a large painting of Cupid and a couple of statues. Not many people were visiting. The painting was at the end of a long, very darkly lit room, and I felt a little uncomfortable gazing at it. It was so obviously a young boy (in fact, Caravaggio's lover Cecco) and was a full-frontal nude. The look on his face was one of impish glee, but I found it all quite disconcerting. We didn't stay long!
Up on the first floor were rooms full of gorgeous furniture, drapes, chandeliers and sumptuous art.
The Wallace Collection was established in 1897 from a private collection, mainly created by Richard Seymour-Conway, 4th Marquess of Hertford. I had a feeling this man liked the nude female form, as there were numerous paintings and erotic miniatures. I had never seen so many boobs displayed in art ever, and I think I've visited a fair few art galleries!
The paintings were stunning, though, and we saw several by artists I'd never heard of, such as Boucher, Fragonard and Greuze. There were a few Canalettos which I recognised immediately, and a Dutch painter that I thought very much resembled Constable or Turner, called Hobbema, famous for his woodland scenes.
Street scenes
It was wonderful to wander around, gazing at the treasures as the light waned outside. Just before 4:00pm, we retrieved our coats and scarves and set off for Marylebone High Street. We picked 31 Below for a cocktail as they were offering their seasonal and classic drinks for just £8 each. We opted to sit outside as we had been gently roasted by the temperature inside Hertford House! The staff put the heaters on for us, and we sat and chatted until 5:00pm, watching the world go by.
A few minutes before 5:00pm, we walked the short distance to
Fischers for our booking. It was just getting dark, and the shops and pubs were lit up:
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| Gail's |
We were shown to a table at the back of the restaurant and given menus. It was a gorgeous setting and reminiscent of Vienna in the early 20th century, with tiles and mirrors on the wall, a huge clock and aproned wait staff.
It took us a while to decide what to have for starters, but in the end we opted for a selection of herring (me) and salmon (Sophie). I chose a bottle of French Sauvignon Blanc to accompany the meal, which was priced at an alarming £39.75. The Austrian wines were just too expensive.
We both chose the small schnitzel for a main course, accompanied by spätzle and potato salad (both extra). I chose the lingonberry compote, while Sophie chose the jus Parisienne. An American couple next to us, obviously early in the dating game, conversed loudly, making me laugh when he said his favourite drink was Diet Coke or Pepsi Max... I might have fled at that point!
Our starters arrived, and they were delicious. I made Sophie try my herring and recounted the story of when I first tried them in a remote eaterie near Scrabster in northern Scotland. Keith and I were on a Scottish tour and had stopped for lunch. I ordered egg mayonnaise while Keith chose the rollmop herring, and when I tasted his, I made him swap! The selection I had this evening was sublime and served with pickled vegetables. I must eat herring more often! Sophie's salmon was equally good!
Who is she?
Our main courses were delivered, and the American couple left. We were very glad we'd ordered the "small" version! My potato salad was creamy, and I could detect mustard in the sauce. We gamely tackled our schnitzels, and the wine went very well with the meal. Another couple arrived, and both Sophie and I just knew that they would be at the talk at Daunt Books. This was confirmed when the man said they had to be out by 7:00pm!
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| Starters |
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| Mains |
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| Yummy desserts! |
We asked the waitress for a little pause before dessert, and a woman arrived in a flurry of hats and scarves, coughing and obviously cold from being outside. I looked at her and recognised her from television, but I just couldn't remember where! I knew it would drive me mad!
She was meeting a friend, and while she waited, we could hear her practising her lines. Sophie didn't know her at all, but I definitely recognised her... who was she?
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| We saw these two men at the talk as well |
For dessert, we ordered Black Forest Gateau (Sophie) and Berggasse (me), a trio of ice-creams with cream and butterscotch sauce. Delicious! We were well and truly stuffed!
Keith had kindly said he would foot the bill for dinner, but it was quite hefty, even with a 10% discount for attending the talk! The restaurant charged a 15% service charge, and I have noticed this beginning to creep into restaurants. The service was very good, but I would hate for the UK to go the way of the US and have tips at 20% or more... If the service had been mediocre, I would definitely have questioned the charge, and I hope it goes to all the staff and isn't kept by the restaurant itself.
Before leaving, we both used the loos, and they were absolutely beautiful, each one individual with its own sink. For some reason, they reminded me of opulent train carriages! I didn't dare go and speak to the actress, especially as I didn't know her name or what she'd been in! I left her in peace to chat with her newly-arrived friend!
It was a short walk back to Daunts, and we were shown to the back of the shop where travel books from Europe are displayed. The area had been set with chairs in rows, and we queued for a glass of wine. In front of Sophie was David McCloskey's wife, very glamorous and blonde. Sophie said she is a political adviser to the Government. She looked very intelligent!
We took our seats, and the talk began. Sophie was beyond excited to see her hero, and the talk was very interesting, mainly about his new book, The Persian. This was his fourth book, and he hinted that there would be a fifth. Towards the end of the talk, they invited questions from the audience, and he came over as a thoroughly lovely man; he was very intelligent and charming, and very good-looking! A veritable James Bond!
At the end, I urged Sophie to go and buy the book and get it signed. The queue wasn't that long, and she was so excited while she waited. David McCloskey had his fair share of weird hangers-on, including one woman who said she'd seen him numerous times before and asked if he remembered her. Er, no!
When it was Sophie's turn to go up, she asked him about Charles Manson and said she'd just finished watching Homeland and would love to work for the CIA! She then finished by asking what his favourite cocktail was... he replied a Gin Martini and told her the measures and the type of Gin he preferred! I think they hit it off!
To say my daughter was on a high afterwards would be the understatement of the decade! She positively floated on air as we went outside to hail a cab to take us to St Pancras!
Eureka!
Before catching our 9:15pm train, we had one last cocktail at The Booking Office. What did Sophie enjoy? A Gin Martini, of course! I had a Negroni, and then we walked swiftly to platform 1 to get our train back to Kettering and reality. What a fabulous day we'd had!
Whilst on the train, I Googled everything I could think of to try and get the actress's name. I then remembered she may have been in Doc Martin, and I hit the jackpot!
She was Joanna Scanlan, a BAFTA-winning actress who had been in lots of TV dramas! Hooray! My quest was over!
We arrived back at Kettering to a somewhat grumpy Keith (and that was before we told him how much the restaurant bill was!) and discovered he hadn't put the heating on at all. The house was freezing! Back down to earth with a definite bump!