We decided to head for Caen soon after breakfast on Sunday and stop for lunch on the way. This morning the homemade jams were even worse as one of them had mould growing on it and we didn't dare ask for more coffee in case we received another glare!
We brought the car around to the annexe and loaded up. Struggling with the temperamental roof box in front of our fellow guests was not something we relished! However, it behaved and we were soon on our way through the wine village of Bourgeil and onto the deserted motorway. We saw nothing on the road for the first half hour and it was tremendously boring. However, once we turned towards Le Mans and Paris we had companions. We stopped again at the small service station and enjoyed a cup of coffee from the same surly waitress!
The weather changed as we neared the coast and became quite overcast. We agreed that rather than wait at Ouistreham for a couple of hours we would drive to Arromanches (scene of an earlier and very disastrous holiday) and have lunch there. It soon became a race against time as we had to negotiate the busy ferry port of Caen and find the right road to the coast. We did this successfully but the miles seemed to get longer the nearer to Arromanches we got!
As always, the best laid plans go wrong! As we approached the seaside town we noticed cars parked all along the road and these were the overflow from the town itself. There was not a space to be had and it seemed as if the whole of Normandy had descended on the place! How ironic was that, given that we'd hardly seen any other cars on the roads all day! We drove into the town, saw the hotel we'd stayed at previously, and promptly drove back out again!
(Back in 1988 Mum, Dad and I visited Arromanches for a short break at Easter, which was our first mistake. Our second mistake was to go only months after my father had had a bad car accident in which he'd badly mangled both legs so he was in a wheelchair. Our third, and worst, mistake was to book only two nights at the hotel in the town thinking we would find accommodation elsewhere for the next few nights, something we'd always found easy on our extensive travels in France. When we arrived at the hotel in Arromanches we found we were on a higher floor than we thought so my poor Dad had to try and climb them, not a good idea given his injuries.
After our stay in Arromanches we had incredible difficulty finding more accommodation as every hotel and guesthouse in the whole of Normandy was booked up. We eventually, late at night, found a hotel in Caen that had spare rooms but we cut our break short and returned home the next morning...not the most successful of trips but something we can thankfully laugh about now!).
Muttering under our breath about our bad luck in this region of France we continued towards Ouistreham and stopped at another town with a large marina as we were all bursting for the toilette!
We had a quick drink in a restaurant full of people eating Sunday lunch and then bought some rolls in a nearby bakery.
The drive to Ouistreham was easy and we arrived in plenty of time to be told that we weren't booked on the 4.30pm ferry! the lady who had booked us in in Portsmouth had made a mistake when she changed our tickets because of the roof-box. However, we were soon waved through and drove onto the "Normandie" finding ourselves parked on the open deck.
Our cabin was more modern than the previous one and we dumped our bags and headed up to the lounge. We intended to book a table in the restaurant and so Dad waited for it to open while Mum and I took Sophie to a small play room for children, It had two cars in it and that was all!
Having booked a table for 7pm we settled in the cafe with a coffee and had a look around the duty free shop. Sophie decided to have a mad hour and became uncontrollable so we returned to the cabin for a wash and brush up before dinner.
After a very relaxing drink in the bar we took our seats in the restaurant by the window. Our waiter carried on with the tradition of being surly and took our orders for a buffet starter and chicken main course. Unfortunately we were disappointed with our meal as the main course was tasteless and unimaginative. The dessert choice was marginally better but the cheese board was hopeless. However, it was lovely to be waited on and our view across the sea was wonderful.
All too soon we saw the Isle of Wight and we returned to the cabin to gather our bags and see the sights of Portsmouth as we sailed into the port. A very helpful man pointed out the interesting things about the town and we descended to the car deck and the long journey home.
We got lost on the way but we didn't care! We had had a lovely break and more importantly, the boot of the car was full of wine!
Sunday, 23 May 1999
Saturday, 22 May 1999
France - The Loire Valley May 20-23 1999 Part 2
Saturday dawned bright and sunny and we took our breakfast in the lovely old dining room around large tables. I never really look forward to French breakfasts and have always thought they are a bit of a con... It's so easy to chuck some croissants and bread into a bowl and dish out butter and jam. Give me a good full English any day!
Our hotel was mentioned in all the guidebooks I had at home and they all described the wonderful jams made by the patronne. Hmmm, yes, if you like tomato jam and other weird and wonderful varieties! I, however, prefer good old-fashioned strawberry on my croissant, thank you very much! Anyway, the coffee was good and we enjoyed listening to a small group of Brits in our hotel guffawing and talking in posh accents. The hotel was on the modest side, but the small car park was stuffed with BMWs, a Porsche and several large Volvos.
Unfortunately we soon learned how to fall out with the owner when we asked for some more coffee. He looked at us as if we'd ordered vintage Champagne and truffles for breakfast and flounced off to get it, conveniently forgetting to bring back more milk with it...
We decided to have a picnic today so we spent a delightful hour purchasing our lunch from several different shops. We bought two long crusty loaves (which then broke in half), some ham and a bottle of wine which then dropped out of a very flimsy carrier bag we had and started to leak. We also chose some fresh tomatoes and two different salads which looked (and tasted) delicious. Sophie chose some crisps and enjoyed a bottle of mineral water.
Our first stop was the village of Azay-le-Rideau and its beautiful Chateau. There was a small market going on in the middle of the village and after parking the car some distance away we strolled around savouring the different cheeses and sausages. One quaintly dressed man tried to sell us some very smelly sausage but we told him we'd get some on the way back to the car and made a hasty exit to a small cafe for coffee. It was wonderful to sit in the sun and watch the French buy their provisions. I only wish we had a similar system in the UK, rather than having to go to Tesco on a Saturday morning!
After our coffee we walked around the village and bought some local wine from a supermarket. I knew I'd never be able to find it at home! Dad chose some sparkling wine from a small wine shop and we added our purchases to the cases already in the boot.
On the way back to the car we stopped to admire the chateau. The people who worked there were on strike and we missed being able to visit it for free by ten minutes. It was gorgeous and resembled a fairy-tale castle but we knew that Sophie wouldn't appreciate it at her age so we returned to the car and set about finding a suitable place for our lunchtime picnic.
Nearby was the forest of Chinon and the lady at our hotel had recommended it for an al fresco lunch. We drove into the forest on a small road but the only picnic table we saw was already occupied. We drove on and on along deserted roads with not a table in sight or even a dry patch of grass. Eventually we headed to the village of St Benoit en Foret and hoped that we would find somewhere there.
Our luck was in! It was almost as if we'd faxed the village with our requirements and they had obliged. In the centre of the village was a wide open grassy space with a picnic table under a tree. A little garden had been created nearby with a small stream beside it. The views stretched out over rolling hills and woods. It was perfect! We grabbed the food and the picnic basket and ran to the table in case anyone else came along to claim it! Sophie played happily in the garden while we unpacked and dished out the food. Dad had also added some pork ribs to the feast so we ate these along with the ham, tomatoes and bread. The wine had barely leaked and was at least drinkable but I certainly wouldn't have added it to the others in the boot of the car!
After our lovely lunch we headed towards Saumur for an afternoon stroll. Sophie fell asleep again and we took advantage of the peace by eating a delicious chocolate ice-cream (Mum and I) and pancakes (Dad). We found a pretty square with a fountain and watched people wandering past and saw numerous wedding cars arrive with guests. It seemed as if there were weddings going on all around us in the town.
The rest of the afternoon was spent looking at the shops with crowds of other tourists. It was very warm and we ended up outside the Town Hall where all the weddings were being held. Dad was keen to try some of the local wines before we returned to the hotel so we drove to a village near Saumur which had a Cave des Vignerons. Dad was out of the car and into the building before I got there, telling the patronne in his best French accent that he didn't speak the language. We were invited to taste a Saumur red which was quite dry and a Coteaux de Saumur, a sweet white, which was delicious. Dad bought two of the whites while I chose two white wines and a red. A lot of the bottles in the cave had decorated labels, some of which were quite naughty!
We tried another village, advertised from the road as being a village of wine-makers, but everything seemed deserted so we headed back to Chinon where we wanted to try some of the local red wine. A sign directed us along a small track where we believed there was a vineyard but we somehow ended up back on the main road. After much driving about, to the amused looks on the villagers' faces, we eventually found the vineyard (a huge ancient cave) and it was certainly worth the trouble.
We tasted three Chinons, each of them capable of ageing up to ten years. They were quite tannic but the wine-maker assured us they would soften if we kept them properly. We bought a bottle of each and added them to the ever growing amount in the boot of the car!
Back at the hotel we relaxed with a drink on the terrace and watched a new batch of guests arriving. The sun was shining, we were all looking forward to dinner and I called Keith to make sure he was surviving without us back in the UK!
Our destination tonight was a small restaurant that served local food at reasonable prices and had a menu for children. We meandered along in the warm evening air and looked forward to being able to sit outside. However, when we arrived every table had been taken and the patron said we would have a long wait. We had no option but to leave and it seemed every person in the restaurant was staring at us as if we were the evening's entertainment! We made our way back to the Auberge Rouge where we sat at a table outside and watched the world go by.
Luckily we'd enjoyed our meals the previous evening so we chose more specialities as starters and tried different main courses. Dad tried the eel which was cooked in a red wine sauce and served with rice. Mum opted for steak while I had venison. Everything was delicious and we drank a red St Nicholas de Bourgeil, which was a bit tannic but improved enormously with the goat's cheese that followed our meal. Sophie tucked into Vouvray pork ribs and said they were delicious!
We returned to the hotel hoping for a nightcap but everywhere was in darkness so it was off to bed,
tired but very happy!
Part 3 will follow soon.
Our hotel was mentioned in all the guidebooks I had at home and they all described the wonderful jams made by the patronne. Hmmm, yes, if you like tomato jam and other weird and wonderful varieties! I, however, prefer good old-fashioned strawberry on my croissant, thank you very much! Anyway, the coffee was good and we enjoyed listening to a small group of Brits in our hotel guffawing and talking in posh accents. The hotel was on the modest side, but the small car park was stuffed with BMWs, a Porsche and several large Volvos.
Unfortunately we soon learned how to fall out with the owner when we asked for some more coffee. He looked at us as if we'd ordered vintage Champagne and truffles for breakfast and flounced off to get it, conveniently forgetting to bring back more milk with it...
We decided to have a picnic today so we spent a delightful hour purchasing our lunch from several different shops. We bought two long crusty loaves (which then broke in half), some ham and a bottle of wine which then dropped out of a very flimsy carrier bag we had and started to leak. We also chose some fresh tomatoes and two different salads which looked (and tasted) delicious. Sophie chose some crisps and enjoyed a bottle of mineral water.
Our first stop was the village of Azay-le-Rideau and its beautiful Chateau. There was a small market going on in the middle of the village and after parking the car some distance away we strolled around savouring the different cheeses and sausages. One quaintly dressed man tried to sell us some very smelly sausage but we told him we'd get some on the way back to the car and made a hasty exit to a small cafe for coffee. It was wonderful to sit in the sun and watch the French buy their provisions. I only wish we had a similar system in the UK, rather than having to go to Tesco on a Saturday morning!
After our coffee we walked around the village and bought some local wine from a supermarket. I knew I'd never be able to find it at home! Dad chose some sparkling wine from a small wine shop and we added our purchases to the cases already in the boot.
On the way back to the car we stopped to admire the chateau. The people who worked there were on strike and we missed being able to visit it for free by ten minutes. It was gorgeous and resembled a fairy-tale castle but we knew that Sophie wouldn't appreciate it at her age so we returned to the car and set about finding a suitable place for our lunchtime picnic.
Nearby was the forest of Chinon and the lady at our hotel had recommended it for an al fresco lunch. We drove into the forest on a small road but the only picnic table we saw was already occupied. We drove on and on along deserted roads with not a table in sight or even a dry patch of grass. Eventually we headed to the village of St Benoit en Foret and hoped that we would find somewhere there.
Our luck was in! It was almost as if we'd faxed the village with our requirements and they had obliged. In the centre of the village was a wide open grassy space with a picnic table under a tree. A little garden had been created nearby with a small stream beside it. The views stretched out over rolling hills and woods. It was perfect! We grabbed the food and the picnic basket and ran to the table in case anyone else came along to claim it! Sophie played happily in the garden while we unpacked and dished out the food. Dad had also added some pork ribs to the feast so we ate these along with the ham, tomatoes and bread. The wine had barely leaked and was at least drinkable but I certainly wouldn't have added it to the others in the boot of the car!
After our lovely lunch we headed towards Saumur for an afternoon stroll. Sophie fell asleep again and we took advantage of the peace by eating a delicious chocolate ice-cream (Mum and I) and pancakes (Dad). We found a pretty square with a fountain and watched people wandering past and saw numerous wedding cars arrive with guests. It seemed as if there were weddings going on all around us in the town.
The rest of the afternoon was spent looking at the shops with crowds of other tourists. It was very warm and we ended up outside the Town Hall where all the weddings were being held. Dad was keen to try some of the local wines before we returned to the hotel so we drove to a village near Saumur which had a Cave des Vignerons. Dad was out of the car and into the building before I got there, telling the patronne in his best French accent that he didn't speak the language. We were invited to taste a Saumur red which was quite dry and a Coteaux de Saumur, a sweet white, which was delicious. Dad bought two of the whites while I chose two white wines and a red. A lot of the bottles in the cave had decorated labels, some of which were quite naughty!
We tried another village, advertised from the road as being a village of wine-makers, but everything seemed deserted so we headed back to Chinon where we wanted to try some of the local red wine. A sign directed us along a small track where we believed there was a vineyard but we somehow ended up back on the main road. After much driving about, to the amused looks on the villagers' faces, we eventually found the vineyard (a huge ancient cave) and it was certainly worth the trouble.
We tasted three Chinons, each of them capable of ageing up to ten years. They were quite tannic but the wine-maker assured us they would soften if we kept them properly. We bought a bottle of each and added them to the ever growing amount in the boot of the car!
Back at the hotel we relaxed with a drink on the terrace and watched a new batch of guests arriving. The sun was shining, we were all looking forward to dinner and I called Keith to make sure he was surviving without us back in the UK!
Our destination tonight was a small restaurant that served local food at reasonable prices and had a menu for children. We meandered along in the warm evening air and looked forward to being able to sit outside. However, when we arrived every table had been taken and the patron said we would have a long wait. We had no option but to leave and it seemed every person in the restaurant was staring at us as if we were the evening's entertainment! We made our way back to the Auberge Rouge where we sat at a table outside and watched the world go by.
Luckily we'd enjoyed our meals the previous evening so we chose more specialities as starters and tried different main courses. Dad tried the eel which was cooked in a red wine sauce and served with rice. Mum opted for steak while I had venison. Everything was delicious and we drank a red St Nicholas de Bourgeil, which was a bit tannic but improved enormously with the goat's cheese that followed our meal. Sophie tucked into Vouvray pork ribs and said they were delicious!
We returned to the hotel hoping for a nightcap but everywhere was in darkness so it was off to bed,
tired but very happy!
Part 3 will follow soon.
Friday, 21 May 1999
France - The Loire Valley May 20-23 1999 Part 1
This is an account of a trip I took with my parents and Sophie to Chinon in France in 1999. Dad and I had given each other a row of vines in the village of Chaintres so we went to have a look at them and try the wine, a Saumur-Champigny!
The journey to Portsmouth started badly, in pouring rain and with a roof-box that refused to stay shut! Luckily a friendly AA man gave us a length of wire and Dad managed to tie it so it stayed closed. I didn't dare drive faster than 70mph though! A revelation for me!
We stopped at a welcoming village pub somewhere in Hampshire for dinner. Sophie slept through the meal and only woke up when we were about to board our ferry for the overnight crossing - The Duc de Normandie.
It took ages to board the ferry and we daren't risk going to the cafe in case we were called to embark. We eventually drove on at 10.30pm and found our cabins for the night. Sophie was a little nervous because of her obsession with the film Titanic and I tried my best to calm her down. Our cabin was very cosy, with a tiny bathroom and bunk beds. We had a quick wash and then squashed up together on the lower bunk. After a while the ferry began to move out of the port and the engines made a terrific groaning noise. Sophie started to whimper about Titanic again but after a few minutes she fell asleep and thankfully the noise of the engines stopped.
The crossing seemed very short and we were woken at 4.30am by a bell. I left Sophie in bed, quickly dressed and put some make-up on. I felt exhausted and could have done with another three hours' sleep!
My Dad made an appearance and we both went in search of hot coffee while Mum looked after a still-sleeping Sophie. The search for coffee proved elusive and the cafes were full of school children so we resigned ourselves to a caffeine-free start to the day. Even the coffee machine we found didn't work!
Thankfully we were soon back in the car and we promised ourselves a cup of cafe au lait at the first French cafe we came to. We drove slowly off the ferry amidst a long coil of British cars and we were soon on our way with my Dad navigating. We drove on and on with no sign at all of somewhere we could get breakfast as there was nowhere open and I didn't fancy driving into the centre of Caen just for coffee.
Soon we came to the small town of Argentan and we saw a sign for McDonalds. It certainly wasn't our ideal choice but by now we were desperate for a coffee and something to eat. We ordered Egg McMuffins, hot coffee and toasted muffins from a surly waitress but we didn't care! Soon afterwards another British family came in and I wondered whether the restaurant did a good trade from the ferry port.
Feeling better we were soon back on the road and heading for Le Mans. The weather was sunny and we looked forward to getting to our hotel and visiting the vineyard in the afternoon. The roads were almost empty and as we neared Le Mans we stopped for more coffee and pain au chocolat at a quiet service station. Sophie and Dad found a wonderful fountain and came back drenched!
At Saumur we turned off the motorway and headed towards the town of Chinon. There were vineyards along the side of the road all offering degustations (wine tastings) and numerous chateaux perched in the surrounding hills. The countryside was beautiful and we caught glimpses of the Loire river flowing alongside the road.
Chinon was a very pretty town and we found our hotel in a quiet back street. It was set back behind gates with its own parking. There was a lovely terrace with chairs and tables and an abundance of flowers. The owner, who spoke excellent English, showed us to our rooms in an annexe a short distance from the main hotel. The rooms were very clean but old-fashioned. Why do the French persist in using candlewick bedspreads? However, both rooms had spacious bathrooms and we were soon unpacking our bags and watching Sophie jump on the beds in glee!
We had an hour to spare before our appointment at the vineyard so we stopped at one of the wonderful roadside bars for lunch. It was in a quiet village and served specialities including quiche and croque monsieur. Sophie made friends with a little French girl and Dad enjoyed a glass of chilled red wine. In this area the reds (Chinon, Bourgeil and Saumur-Champigny) are often chilled slightly before serving, something we're not used to doing in Britain!
After a delicious lunch we carried on our way along a road that would become very familiar by the end of our little break. The tiny village of Chaintres is tucked away from the main road and we had several attempts at trying to find the vineyard, hampered by a couple of French drivers who insisted on driving too close to me despite my obvious GB sticker!
On the dot of 2.30pm we arrived at the Domaine de la Cune and met Jean Albert who is one of the brothers. He spoke excellent English and we waited in a cool room full of wine for another couple to arrive. Sophie had decided to have a nap so we parked her in a quiet corner while we got down to the serious business of wine tasting. The other couple had arrived and they were very friendly and obviously loved wine as much as we did. We tasted "our" wine, the 1997 3Jean which was exclusive to 3D Wines, and then some more examples of the vineyard - a Saumur-Champigny red, a white wine and a sparkling Saumur, which was delicious.
It was all very relaxing and afterwards we were given a tour by Jean Albert. He showed us the vines and how he was pruning them, the actual winery with the equipment and the fascinating cellar which was built 300 years ago and still holds large quantities of wine.
All too soon our visit was over so we loaded up the car with our cases of wine and departed, meandering around the picturesque vineyards before heading back to Chinon and an afternoon stroll. We wanted to find a good restaurant for the evening and walked around the lovely streets of the bustling little town. There were several places to choose from but the menus looked a little daunting for our three year old so we headed back to the Hotel Diderot to ask if they could recommend a suitable restaurant to eat. The owner's charming sister told us to try the Auberge Rouge where she said the menu was informal and it was a good place for children to eat.
After a quick bath we strolled to the restaurant but forgot the pushchair. A moany Sophie made sure we suffered as she wanted to be carried all the way there! The auberge was all we had hoped it would be and we were soon settled into a tiny alcove with a traditional menu offering specialities of the area, including eels, much to Dad's delight! We chose two specialities for starters which included foie gras, Vouvray pork ribs, pate and smoked ham. Four main courses we all had something different - I chose steak, Mum opted for lamb chops while Dad tried the duck. Sophie was delighted with her ham and fried potatoes. Our main courses came complete with goat's cheese and fruit on a wicker tray. We drank a bottle of red Chinon with the meal which was delicious.
On the way back to the hotel we took it in turns to carry a sleepy Sophie. It was still quite light and the shuttered houses reminded me of Pollensa in Mallorca. We were all looking forward to a good night's sleep as we were shattered by our long day!
Part 2 will follow shortly.
The journey to Portsmouth started badly, in pouring rain and with a roof-box that refused to stay shut! Luckily a friendly AA man gave us a length of wire and Dad managed to tie it so it stayed closed. I didn't dare drive faster than 70mph though! A revelation for me!
We stopped at a welcoming village pub somewhere in Hampshire for dinner. Sophie slept through the meal and only woke up when we were about to board our ferry for the overnight crossing - The Duc de Normandie.
It took ages to board the ferry and we daren't risk going to the cafe in case we were called to embark. We eventually drove on at 10.30pm and found our cabins for the night. Sophie was a little nervous because of her obsession with the film Titanic and I tried my best to calm her down. Our cabin was very cosy, with a tiny bathroom and bunk beds. We had a quick wash and then squashed up together on the lower bunk. After a while the ferry began to move out of the port and the engines made a terrific groaning noise. Sophie started to whimper about Titanic again but after a few minutes she fell asleep and thankfully the noise of the engines stopped.
The crossing seemed very short and we were woken at 4.30am by a bell. I left Sophie in bed, quickly dressed and put some make-up on. I felt exhausted and could have done with another three hours' sleep!
My Dad made an appearance and we both went in search of hot coffee while Mum looked after a still-sleeping Sophie. The search for coffee proved elusive and the cafes were full of school children so we resigned ourselves to a caffeine-free start to the day. Even the coffee machine we found didn't work!
Thankfully we were soon back in the car and we promised ourselves a cup of cafe au lait at the first French cafe we came to. We drove slowly off the ferry amidst a long coil of British cars and we were soon on our way with my Dad navigating. We drove on and on with no sign at all of somewhere we could get breakfast as there was nowhere open and I didn't fancy driving into the centre of Caen just for coffee.
Soon we came to the small town of Argentan and we saw a sign for McDonalds. It certainly wasn't our ideal choice but by now we were desperate for a coffee and something to eat. We ordered Egg McMuffins, hot coffee and toasted muffins from a surly waitress but we didn't care! Soon afterwards another British family came in and I wondered whether the restaurant did a good trade from the ferry port.
Feeling better we were soon back on the road and heading for Le Mans. The weather was sunny and we looked forward to getting to our hotel and visiting the vineyard in the afternoon. The roads were almost empty and as we neared Le Mans we stopped for more coffee and pain au chocolat at a quiet service station. Sophie and Dad found a wonderful fountain and came back drenched!
At Saumur we turned off the motorway and headed towards the town of Chinon. There were vineyards along the side of the road all offering degustations (wine tastings) and numerous chateaux perched in the surrounding hills. The countryside was beautiful and we caught glimpses of the Loire river flowing alongside the road.
Chinon was a very pretty town and we found our hotel in a quiet back street. It was set back behind gates with its own parking. There was a lovely terrace with chairs and tables and an abundance of flowers. The owner, who spoke excellent English, showed us to our rooms in an annexe a short distance from the main hotel. The rooms were very clean but old-fashioned. Why do the French persist in using candlewick bedspreads? However, both rooms had spacious bathrooms and we were soon unpacking our bags and watching Sophie jump on the beds in glee!
We had an hour to spare before our appointment at the vineyard so we stopped at one of the wonderful roadside bars for lunch. It was in a quiet village and served specialities including quiche and croque monsieur. Sophie made friends with a little French girl and Dad enjoyed a glass of chilled red wine. In this area the reds (Chinon, Bourgeil and Saumur-Champigny) are often chilled slightly before serving, something we're not used to doing in Britain!
After a delicious lunch we carried on our way along a road that would become very familiar by the end of our little break. The tiny village of Chaintres is tucked away from the main road and we had several attempts at trying to find the vineyard, hampered by a couple of French drivers who insisted on driving too close to me despite my obvious GB sticker!
On the dot of 2.30pm we arrived at the Domaine de la Cune and met Jean Albert who is one of the brothers. He spoke excellent English and we waited in a cool room full of wine for another couple to arrive. Sophie had decided to have a nap so we parked her in a quiet corner while we got down to the serious business of wine tasting. The other couple had arrived and they were very friendly and obviously loved wine as much as we did. We tasted "our" wine, the 1997 3Jean which was exclusive to 3D Wines, and then some more examples of the vineyard - a Saumur-Champigny red, a white wine and a sparkling Saumur, which was delicious.
It was all very relaxing and afterwards we were given a tour by Jean Albert. He showed us the vines and how he was pruning them, the actual winery with the equipment and the fascinating cellar which was built 300 years ago and still holds large quantities of wine.
All too soon our visit was over so we loaded up the car with our cases of wine and departed, meandering around the picturesque vineyards before heading back to Chinon and an afternoon stroll. We wanted to find a good restaurant for the evening and walked around the lovely streets of the bustling little town. There were several places to choose from but the menus looked a little daunting for our three year old so we headed back to the Hotel Diderot to ask if they could recommend a suitable restaurant to eat. The owner's charming sister told us to try the Auberge Rouge where she said the menu was informal and it was a good place for children to eat.
After a quick bath we strolled to the restaurant but forgot the pushchair. A moany Sophie made sure we suffered as she wanted to be carried all the way there! The auberge was all we had hoped it would be and we were soon settled into a tiny alcove with a traditional menu offering specialities of the area, including eels, much to Dad's delight! We chose two specialities for starters which included foie gras, Vouvray pork ribs, pate and smoked ham. Four main courses we all had something different - I chose steak, Mum opted for lamb chops while Dad tried the duck. Sophie was delighted with her ham and fried potatoes. Our main courses came complete with goat's cheese and fruit on a wicker tray. We drank a bottle of red Chinon with the meal which was delicious.
On the way back to the hotel we took it in turns to carry a sleepy Sophie. It was still quite light and the shuttered houses reminded me of Pollensa in Mallorca. We were all looking forward to a good night's sleep as we were shattered by our long day!
Part 2 will follow shortly.
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